Tricouni Peak by Primus Peak majestically overlooks the expansive Borealis Glacier and the nearby Lucky Pass. This impressive mountain marks the north end of the scenic Inspiration Traverse from Cascade River Road. Additionally, Thunder Creek Trail, situated on the north side, offers the most direct access to the peak.
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Tricouni Peak at a Glance
Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: 24 miles
Elevation Range: 1240′-8102′
Gear: helmet, ice ax, crampons
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: on the trail
Return to the Thunder Creek Trailhead
My plan to open the season with Tricouni Peak was abruptly ended due to a washed-out bridge. Cody and I turned back after spending several unsuccessful hours attempting to cross the roaring Thunder Creek. After returning from Mount Olympus, a friend’s forwarded recent report on the Inspiration Traverse revealed a potential route. The new information provided the perfect opportunity to revisit our much-anticipated ascent.
The peaceful 6.5-mile walk to McAllister camp passed by quickly with the dog’s entertainment. Meanwhile, I made a conscious effort to minimize photo stops this time, which helped us maintain a steady pace. Along the way, it was pleasing to discover that the bridge, which was under construction, was now fully operational. The trail crew did a fantastic job, and soon after, I caught the first glimpse of the magnificent Tricouni Peak.
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Navigating Thunder Creek and North Ridge
We continued past the old washed-out bridge, about a quarter of a mile farther than before. After leaving the main trail, we then navigated through light brush to finally reach the banks of Thunder Creek. We carefully weaved our way through a maze of massive downed trees and onto a convenient sandbar. From there, a large log provided a sturdy bridge for us to cross the powerful, raging river safely.
Soon, from the west shore of the creek, we followed a faint path northward to the old bridge site. After a brief rest to check out its remains, we located the climber’s trail at the first fork and began our ascent up the north ridge. The initial mild terrain quickly steepened as we contended with numerous downed trees littering the path. We carefully stepped over or skirted around these obstacles as we continued upward.
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Upward Toward Borealis Lake Below Tricouni Peak
Views were limited in the dense forest until we reached a viewpoint at around 4600 feet, viewing Snowfield Peak. From this vantage point, I quickly spotted Primus Peak impressively looming above in the distance. We soon re-entered the tree line and continued our steady climb toward the beautiful Borealis Lake. The path faded at times, but we eventually found a more defined trail as the terrain steepened once more.
Just below the lake, I surprisingly ran into Eric for the second time this summer with his sister-in-law and son. It is rare to see other people on such an obscure climb, let alone the same person twice in one season. Borealis Lake, formed by a receding glacier in recent decades, had many loose rocks and sloping slabs along its shoreline. It took us a considerable amount of time to find a suitable and safe spot for our campsite.
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A Change of Itinerary to Lucky Pass
The original intent was to climb Tricouni Peak on our second day of the trip. However, since Cody and I arrived at camp much earlier than anticipated, I decided to climb today instead. The weather forecast for the following day was also not looking very favorable for a summit attempt. So, after setting up our tent, we began heading west along the rocky shoreline toward the ridgeline over heather and slabs.
Much of the snow on Borealis Glacier has retreated significantly due to the effects of global warming. The glacier has now split into upper and lower sections, separated by imposing slabs and cliffs. I wore crampons on the west edge of the vast glacier before continuing. Shortly, we carefully followed Eric’s tracks, navigating around several crevasses on our way to Lucky Pass with the sudden view of Forbidden Peak.
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Breathtaking Panoramas on Tricouni Peak
The unmistakable snow finger loomed just above the pass, which seemed somewhat discreet when reading other reports. We soon followed the existing boot tracks up the snow for about 200 feet before transitioning onto rock. The solid ramps and ledges made for a much more efficient and enjoyable climb. The dark stones, under a thin layer of scree, were surprisingly stable as we slowly moved toward the bouldered summit.
The weather pattern today was remarkably similar to my previous climb on the neighboring Primus Peak. Clouds began to creep in from the west while we were still making our way across the glacier. Primus Peak was visible just on the other side of the pass, a stunning backdrop. We spent a full hour on the summit, savoring incredible views, including Jack Mountain and Mount Logan, before descending,
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Descent to Borealis Lake and a Restful Night
On the way back down, I felt more secure downclimbing the steepest snow incline facing in. Once we safely reached the pass, we carefully retraced our steps back across the expansive glacier and grass slopes. Downclimbing the slabs seemed more of a challenge than the ascent had been. We finally arrived back at the camp just as the evening sky was dimming, in time for a much-needed meal!
After a satisfying dinner, I spent some time inside the tent, carefully looking over the maps. A steady south wind continued to blow throughout the night, making shuffling sounds against the tent. I kept thinking about how grateful we were to have climbed the peak on that same day. This meant we could potentially avoid the unpleasant weather that was in the forecast and enjoy a leisurely exit.
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The Return Journey to Thunder Creek
We woke up early the next morning to a cloudy, ominous-looking sky. It began to rain before 6 AM, and the downpour lasted for what felt like an incredibly long hour. Meanwhile, Cody and I patiently waited inside, listening to the rhythmic sound of the raindrops. We silently enjoyed the views after the rain stopped while clouds remained around Snowfield Peak. Just then, I realized we had not encountered wildlife during this trip.
Down on the north ridge, we stumbled upon a different trail and followed it until it eventually faded. We then rejoined our original track, retracing our steps down the steep and physically taxing terrain. Many areas of the trail were far too steep to allow for easy plunge-stepping down the slope. Eventually, we made it back to the main trail and met two summer camp groups after safely crossing Thunder Creek once again.
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