Mount Logan Fremont Glacier / 洛根山費力蒙冰川

The enormous amount of effort put into last week’s climb yielded no views on the summit. So this week, I kept my fingers crossed for good weather on Mount Logan. For this long of an approach, it would have1 been a pity not to get decent views.

Mount Logan Summit
Mount Logan Summit

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan at a Glance

Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 1240′-9087′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax

GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets

Logistics Overview

September 12-14, 2015

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Day 1 – Saturday, September 12
Approach to Thunder Basin
Night 1 – Thunder Basin Camp at 6000′

Day 2 – Sunday, September 13
Mount Logan
Night 2 – Junction Camp

Day 3 – Monday, September 14
Exit


Day 1

Approach to Thunder Basin

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Hiking to Thunder Basin

This trip was perhaps the loneliest of all my solo outings. The 16-mile hike to Thunder Basin felt incredibly long without seeing other hikers. For the most part, views were spotty throughout the forest. So I couldn’t take my mind off the long trek by having scenery to enjoy.

The sky gradually darkened during the last two miles to the high camp at 6000′. After scouting, I found an excellent campsite. I was just half a mile north of Park Creek Pass. Tonight, the starry sky had a tint of the city light pollution. But it wasn’t too terrible to photograph the Milky Way and star trails over Mount Buckner.

See more trip photos here.

Day 2

Mont Logan

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Mount Logan Climb

Early the next morning, the weather took a drastic turn suddenly. Low clouds took over the area along with the wind gusts. But it didn’t concern me much, as the forecast showed a sunny weekend. So after waiting for another hour at camp, the sky eventually cleared. Then I grabbed my gear and went up the mountain.

Most parties stay low to bypass the southwest ridge at 6600′. So they could traverse northeast up to the west face. But I initially aimed too high, and the terrain quickly steepened. So I downclimbed 200′ through a notch at 7800′ to avoid cliffs. From there, I went onto the west slopes. Then I traveled north toward the Fremont Glacier. Views were increasingly better, the higher I went.

See more trip photos here.

Fremont Glacier to South Ridge

I took a lunch break before Point 8248. Then I started traveling northeast, aiming for the hogback at the top of the glacier. From there, I surveyed the area for a suitable spot to move off the snow. But upon first glance, I didn’t see a decent place with snow over the rocks for a smooth transition.

Soon, I found the receding snow bridge. But it just barely touched the ledge on the other side. So with careful maneuvering, I was able to use it to get on the rocks. From there, the rest of the scramble was on exposed class 3 terrain. Shortly, I arrived at the 8700′ notch. Then I followed a faint path while moving west on the ridgeline. Eventually, I arrived on the summit in the early afternoon.

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan Summit Views Plus Descent

Holy isht! I made it up to the top of this humongous mountain finally. Logan is beautiful in all directions. But I particularly like the northern landscape from the Ragged Ridge. The views went for miles on this gorgeous day. I’d occasionally glance over at Goode Mountain. The north face looked nearly vertical. But it’s unlikely that I would get to it before the first snowfall.

I took some time to take in the views. Then it was time for me to go back down to the campsite. The receding snow bridge was the only crux on the exit. Because of the angle, it looked easier getting off than getting back on it. But I reached out and then dug the ice ax deep into the hard snow. Then one leg at a time, I slowly climbed back onto the glacier.

See more trip photos here.

Getting Back to Highway 20

I went back to camp in the late afternoon. So I packed up quickly. Later, I took a much-needed nap in the tent. Then I set off on the long 18-mile hike back out to Highway 20. But I ended up getting back to Skagit Queen Camp right after dark. So from there, I walked the next four miles slowly back to the Junction Camp. But not before going back up the annoying 1000′ elevation.

The time was now 11 PM. It was too exhausting of a day to think about hiking the rest nine miles back to the car. So I decided to spend the second night at the Junction Camp. Oops, I didn’t have a permit for this campsite. This trail crossing marked the halfway point between the high camp and the Thunder Creek Trailhead. So it’s like I was there already!

See more trip photos here.

Day 3

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Outro

I woke up early the next morning. So I packed up without having breakfast. I wanted to get back out to my car and have a decent meal later. So I embarked on the rest of the nine miles back to the trailhead. My big toes were having issues from the stiff boots.

Kodak moment on Mount Logan
Kodak moment on Mount Logan

See more trip photos here.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

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