Mount Logan Fremont Glacier / 洛根山費力蒙冰川

The enormous amount of effort put into last week’s climb yielded no views on the summit. So this week, I kept my fingers crossed for good weather on Mount Logan. For this long of an approach, it would have been a pity not to have decent views.

Mount Logan Summit
Mount Logan Summit

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan at a Glance

Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 1240′-9087′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax

GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets

Logistics Overview

September 12-14, 2015

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Day 1 – Saturday, September 12
Approach to Thunder Basin
Night 1 – Thunder Basin Camp at 6000′

Day 2 – Sunday, September 13
Mount Logan
Night 2 – Junction Camp

Day 3 – Monday, September 14
Exit


Day 1

Approach to Thunder Basin

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Hiking to Thunder Basin

This trip was the loneliest of all my solo outings. The 16-mile hike to Thunder Basin felt incredibly long without seeing anyone. Views were spotty throughout the forest. So I couldn’t take my mind off the long trek by enjoying the scenery.

The sky darkened in the last two miles to the high camp at 6000′. After some scouting, I found a decent campsite. I was now half a mile north of Park Creek Pass. The night sky had a tint of the city light. But I could still photograph the Milky Way above Mount Buckner.

See more trip photos here.

Day 2

Mont Logan

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Mount Logan Climb

Early the next morning, the weather took a drastic turn. Low clouds and wind gusts came into the area. But since the forecast showed a sunny weekend, it didn’t concern me much. After waiting another hour, the sky slowly cleared. Then I grabbed my gear and went up the mountain.

Most parties bypass the southwest ridge at 6600′. But I went up too high on the ridgeline, and the terrain steepened fast. So at 7800′, I dropped 200′ through a notch to avoid cliffs. From there, I moved to the west slopes. Then I went north toward Fremont Glacier. Views were better the higher I went.

See more trip photos here.

Fremont Glacier to South Ridge

I took a lunch break before Point 8248. Then I started moving northeast. At the same time, I aimed for the hogback at the top of the glacier. From there, I looked for a decent spot to move off the snow. Meanwhile, I worried I wouldn’t be able to go past the moat. It was late in the season.

Afterward, I found a receding snow bridge. But it barely touched the ledge on the other side. So with careful maneuvering, I moved off the snow. Then the rest of the climb was on exposed class 3 terrain. Once I went up to the 8750′ notch, I followed a faint trail on the ridgeline. Soon, I arrived on the airy summit in the early afternoon.

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan Summit Views Plus Exit

Holy isht! I made it to the top of this humongous mountain. Mount Logan is beautiful in all directions. But I like the northern side the most. The views went for miles on this gorgeous day. I would sometimes glance over at Goode Mountain. The north face looked very steep. But I hoped to go there before the first snowfall.

I took the time to enjoy the views. Then I had to go back down to the campsite. The snow bridge was my only crux on the exit. Because of the angle, it was easier to get off than getting back on it. So I reached out and dug the ice ax deep into the ice. Then with one leg at a time, I slowly moved back onto the glacier.

See more trip photos here.

Going Back to Highway 20

I packed up in the late afternoon, and I took a much-needed nap. Then I set off on the 18-mile hike back to Highway 20. But I ended up going back to Skagit Queen Camp after dark. Then from there, I walked the next four miles back to the Junction Camp. But not before having to gain back the 1000′ elevation.

The time was now 11 PM. It was too exhausting of a day to think about making the rest nine miles back to the car. So I spent my second night at the Junction Camp. Oops, I didn’t have a permit for this campsite. This place marked the halfway point between high camp and the Thunder Creek Trailhead. So it was like I was almost there!

See more trip photos here.

Day 3

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Outro

I woke up early the next morning. So I packed up and started moving without breakfast. I wanted to go back out to the car and eat a decent meal. My big toes were having issues from the stiff boots. So I couldn’t move very fast.

Kodak moment on Mount Logan
Kodak moment on Mount Logan

See more trip photos here.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.