Mount Logan by Mount Goode and Storm King + Fremont Glacier / 洛根山

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The enormous effort I put into last week’s climb yielded zero views. So this week, I kept my fingers crossed for decent weather on Mount Logan. It would have been a pity not to see anything on top because of the long distance.

Mount Logan Summit
Mount Logan Summit

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan at a Glance

Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: 41 miles
Elevation Range: 1240′-9087′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets

Logistics Overview

September 12-14, 2015

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Day 1 – Saturday, September 12
Approach to Thunder Basin
Night 1 – Thunder Basin Camp at 6000′

Day 2 – Sunday, September 13
Mount Logan
Night 2 – Junction Camp

Day 3 – Monday, September 14
Exit


Day 1

Approach to Thunder Basin

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Hiking to Thunder Basin

The trip was by far the loneliest of all my solo outings. The 16-mile hike to Thunder Basin felt long without seeing anyone en route. Views were spotty in the forest. So I couldn’t enjoy the scenery to take my mind off the long trek.

The sky darkened in the last two miles to the 6000′ camp. But I was now half a mile north of Park Creek Pass, and I managed to find a decent campsite. The night sky had a tint of the city light. But the Milky Way above Mount Buckner was still visible to photograph.

See more trip photos here.

Day 2

Mont Logan

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Mount Logan Climb

The following day, the weather took a drastic turn. Low clouds and wind gusts came into the area. But since the forecast showed a sunny weekend, it didn’t concern me much. I waited another hour before the sky cleared. Then I grabbed my gear and hurried up the mountain.

Most parties bypass the southwest ridge at 6600′. But I went up too high on the steep terrain. Later at 7800′, I dropped 200′ via a notch to avoid more cliffs. Then I went onto the west slopes. Soon, I headed north toward Fremont Glacier. Views improved up higher.

See more trip photos here.

Fremont Glacier Plus South Ridge

After a lunch break before Point 8248, I started going northeast. Meanwhile, I aimed for the hogback at the top of the glacier. From there, I looked for a decent spot to move off the snow. But I worried I wouldn’t be able to go past the moat. It was late in the season.

Later I found a receding snow bridge. It just barely touched the ledge on the other side. But with careful moves, I was able to cross. The rest of the way up to the 8750′ notch was on exposed, class 3 ground. From the crest, I followed a faint trail up the airy summit.

See more trip photos here.

Mount Logan Summit Plus Exit

Holy isht! I made it to the top of this enormous mountain. Views went for miles. Though, I especially enjoyed the scenery to the north. I’d sometimes glance over at Goode Mountain‘s sheer north side. But I was hoping to go there before the snow comes.

I would’ve stayed longer. But I had to go back to camp. Again, the snow bridge was my crux on the way out. Due to the angle, it was easier to come off than going back on it. So I dug the ice ax deep in the ice. Then with one leg at a time, I scooched back onto the glacier.

See more trip photos here.

A Long Hike Back to Highway 20

After packing up, I took a much-needed nap. Then I set off on the 18-mile trek back up to Highway 20. Though, I didn’t reach Skagit Queen Camp until dark. So I walked another four miles back up to Junction Camp. At the same time, I gained back the 1000′ elevation.

The time was now 11 PM. It’s exhausting even to think about walking the rest nine miles back to the car. So I spent my second night at Junction Camp. It’s also the halfway point between high camp and Thunder Creek Trailhead. So yeah, I was “almost” there! But not quite.

See more trip photos here.

Day 3

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Outro

Early the following morning, I skipped breakfast and started walking. I wanted to go back to the car soon and have a decent meal. But I couldn’t move fast because my big toes started having issues from the stiff boots.

One step at a time. 1, 2, 1, 2…

Kodak moment on Mount Logan
Kodak moment on Mount Logan

See more trip photos here.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

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