Tricouni Peak by Primus Peak majestically overlooks the expansive Borealis Glacier and the nearby Lucky Pass. This impressive mountain marks the north end of the classic Inspiration Traverse from Cascade River Road. Additionally, Thunder Creek Trail, situated on the north side, offers the most direct access to the peak.
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Tricouni Peak at a Glance
Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: 24 miles
Elevation Range: 1240′-8102′
Gear: helmet, ice ax, crampons
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: on the trail
Return to the Thunder Creek Trailhead
My plan to open the season with Tricouni Peak was abruptly ended due to a washed-out bridge. Cody and I turned back after spending several hours attempting to cross Thunder Creek. After returning from Mount Olympus, a friend forwarded a recent report of a potential route on the Inspiration Traverse. The new information provided the perfect opportunity to revisit the much-anticipated climb.
The peaceful 6.5-mile walk to McAllister Camp passed by quickly with Cody’s entertainment. This time, I made a conscious effort to minimize photo stops, which helped maintain a steady pace. Along the way, we discover that the bridge under construction was fully operational. The trail crew did a fantastic job. Soon after, I caught the first glimpse of the magnificent Tricouni Peak.
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Navigating Thunder Creek and North Ridge
We continued past the old washed-out bridge, about a quarter of a mile farther than before. After leaving the main trail, we navigated through light brush to finally reach the banks of Thunder Creek. We carefully weaved through a maze of massive downed trees onto a convenient sandbar. From there, a large log provided a sturdy bridge to cross the raging river safely.
From the west shore of the creek, we soon followed a faint path north to the old bridge. After a quick rest to check out its remains, we located the climber’s trail at the first fork and began ascending the north ridge. The mild terrain quickly steepened as we contended with numerous downed trees littering the path. We carefully stepped over or skirted around them as we continued.
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Upward Toward Borealis Lake Below Tricouni Peak
Views were limited in the dense forest until a viewpoint at around 4600 feet, viewing Snowfield Peak. From this vantage point, I spotted Primus Peak impressively looming above in the distance. We soon re-entered the tree line and continued climbing steadily toward Borealis Lake. The path faded at times, but we eventually found a more defined trail as the terrain steepened again.
Surprisingly, just below the lake, I ran into Eric for the second time this summer with his sister-in-law and son. It was rare to see people on an obscure climb, let alone the same person twice in one season. Borealis Lake, formed by a receding glacier in recent decades, had many loose rocks and sloping slabs along its shoreline. It took us some time to find a suitable and safe spot for our campsite.
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A Change of Itinerary to Lucky Pass
The original plan was to climb Tricouni Peak on day two. However, since we arrived at camp much earlier than anticipated, I decided to climb today instead. The weather forecast for the following day was also not looking favorable for a summit attempt. So, after setting up camp, we headed west along the rocky shore over heather and slabs toward the ridgeline.
Much of the Borealis Glacier has retreated significantly due to the effects of global warming. In turn, it had split into upper and lower tiers, separated by imposing slabs and cliffs. I wore crampons on the glacier’s west edge before continuing. Shortly, we followed Eric’s tracks, navigating several crevasses en route to Lucky Pass with the sudden view of Forbidden Peak.
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Breathtaking Panoramas on Tricouni Peak
The unmistakable snow finger loomed above the pass, which seemed somewhat discreet in other reports. We followed the fresh boot tracks up the snow for about 200 feet before transitioning onto rocks. The solid ramps and ledges made for a much more efficient and enjoyable climb. The dark rocks, under a thin layer of scree, were surprisingly stable as we slowly moved toward the bouldered summit.
The weather pattern today was remarkably similar to my previous climb on the neighboring Primus Peak. Clouds had crept in from the west while we were still making our way across the glacier. Primus Peak was visible just on the other side of the pass, a stunning backdrop. We spent a full hour on top, savoring incredible views, including Jack Mountain and Mount Logan, before descending,
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Borealis Lake and a Restful Night
On the way back, I felt more secure downclimbing the steep snow incline facing in. Once we reached the pass, we carefully retraced our steps back through the vast glacier and grass slopes. Climbing down the slabs seemed more of a challenge than the ascent was. We finally arrived back at the camp just as the evening sky was dimming, in time for a much-needed meal!
After a satisfying dinner, I spent some time inside the tent, carefully looking over the maps. A steady south wind continued to blow throughout the night, making shuffling sounds against the tent. I kept thinking about how grateful we were to have climbed the peak the same day. In turn, we would potentially avoid the unpleasant weather in the forecast and enjoy a leisurely exit.
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The Return to Thunder Creek
We woke up early the next morning to an ominous-looking sky. It began raining before 6 AM, then the downpour lasted for what felt like an incredibly long hour. Cody and I patiently waited inside, listening to the rhythmic sound of the raindrops. After the rain stopped, we enjoyed the views as clouds remained around Snowfield Peak. Just then, I realized we had not encountered wildlife during this trip.
Down on the north ridge, we stumbled upon a different trail and followed it until it eventually faded. We then rejoined our original track, retracing steps down the steep and physically taxing terrain. Many areas of the trail were too steep to allow for easy plunge-stepping down the slope. Eventually, we made it back to the main trail and met two summer camp groups after safely crossing Thunder Creek.
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