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Holliway Mountain was a time-consuming endeavor. It involved getting into the Methow River Valley through Methow Pass. After reading through a few reports, we took the Mount Hardy approach, same as the other parties.
The Lowdown on Holliway Mountain
Access: Swamp Creek
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 3960′-8000′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice axe, snowshoes
GPS Track: available
Getting Around Mount Hardy
The pup and I slept at the Swamp Creek pullout west of Highway 20 so that we could start early. In the morning, after crossing the highway, we immediately scrambled up Mount Hardy‘s south ridge. But this time we moved farther west in the forest. I remembered swimming through down trees and dense brush the first time by getting too far east.
Right after we got above the forest, we were in the open terrain. Then we proceeded to get through the burned area while stepping over some down trees. I put on snowshoes at 5400′ to move more efficiently. A northeast rising traverse from 7200′ to 7400′ took us up to the east ridge. From there, we had our first look at the classic Tower Mountain and Golden Horn. Still no signs of Holliway Mountain, yet.
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En Route to Nugget Lakes Basin
We first walked down the ridge and stopped before Point 6818. Then we found a good entry to get into the West Fork Methow River Valley on steep slopes. With excellent snow coverage, it made sense to bypass Methow Pass entirely. As we wouldn’t have been able to make use of the snow-covered Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Traveling along the east of the river, the farther north we moved, the more the elevation loss.
Keeping an elevation between 4900′ and 5100′, we scrambled through the forest and a few clearings strewn with many down trees. Snowshoes stayed on or off depending on the amount of snow coverage. Soon, we crossed Golden Creek at 5000′ to its north side. Then we traveled southeast upslope to reach Nugget Lakes Basin at 5850′. My jaw dropped when the impressive, sheer north face of Golden Horn came into view suddenly.
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Climbing via the Access Gully
By the time we could see the lakes, we were already well above them. So we stayed high and continued to head southeast. Soon, we located the snow finger gully at 6800′. By now, our energy level was low. So the final 1200′ climb felt like miles long. Snow ended below the summit block, and the massive choss took over. We took time getting through this section to avoid kicking down rocks at each other.
At first glance, I mistook the tower directly overhead for the summit. But I was able to slowly discern the real summit on climbers left as we went up higher. Beyond the choss, excellent holds and ledges helped finish the last bit of scramble. A few large stacked boulders marked the highest point on the broad summit.
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Holliway Mountain Summit
Not sure where to start looking with the abounding views. But everywhere I looked, it was breathtaking! The enormous Golden Horn and Tower Mountain felt like they were only within arm’s reach. Azurite Peak and Mount Ballard quietly loomed behind us. Best of all, the southwestern skyline was full of dramatic north faces of many familiar high points.
After an extended break on top, we then slowly wrapped up our stay. So hard to leave behind all the views. But alas, the show must go on. We safely got back down to the snow finger gully and then crossed Golden Creek again at the same spot. As we traveled south toward the head of the Methow Valley, at the same time, we were also gaining elevation. Dang! After a couple of hours of hiking, we found a semi dry spot under a tree and bivyed.
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Getting Back Around Mount Hardy and Out
In the morning, we did the last bit of steep climb back up to the pass. Being on the ridge meant that we were finally out of the Methow River drainage. Woohoo! Gaining elevation on the way back from a climbing trip always felt like the crux of the climb! After a quick photo break, we then retraced our steps back around Mount Hardy.
My right crampon strap had come undone somewhere on the mountain’s south face. But I didn’t realize I had lost a crampon until after we had finished the traverse. But that was my least concern. I couldn’t be any happier to be back on the Highway 20 side to complete the descent.
See more trip photos here.