West McMillan Spire by Mount Degenhardt ranks #9 in the Picket Range after Phantom Peak. Sitting above Terror Basin, the striking feature is a climber favorite. Moreover, it calls the least technicality and offers stunning vistas.
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West McMillan Spire at a Glance
Access: Goodell Creek Cross-Country Zone Access Trailhead
Round Trip: 24 miles
Elevation Range: 600′-8000′
Gear: helmet, rope, rock
GSP Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets
July 30 – August 1, 2016
Day 1 – Saturday, July 30
Approach to Terror Creek Basin
Night 1 – McMillan Camp at 5800′
Day 2 – Sunday, July 31
West McMillan Spire
Night 2 – McMillan Camp at 5800′
Day 1
Approach to Terror Creek Basin
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
The Preface on West Mcmillan Spire
The top of Sourdough Mountain was where I had initially noticed McMillan Spires. On that trip, I also saw Picket Range for the first time. Back then, the place seemed out of touch for this novice scrambler.
Fast forward to today. After my first taste of Picket Range earlier this season, I couldn’t wait to see what else was in store. Ann wanted to do a conditioner for the trip, so she and I went to Mount Pugh together.
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Goodell Creek Trail
I learned that West McMillan Spire was the least challenging peak in the Southern Pickets. So I invited Anne and Eileen along since they had canceled their picket traverse. It was our first time on the Goodell Creek Trail.
It took some time to cross down trees on the lower trail. Then at the fork with an arrow cairn, we went up the steep hillside. The path slowly flatted in the meadow, where we had incredible views of the eastern Pickets above the trees.
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En Route to Terror Creek Basin
We couldn’t see the other half of the Southern Pickets from here. Because The Barrier, the steep ridgeline extended from Mount Degenhardt, had blocked it from view. In turn, the ridge separated Terror Creek Basin from Crescent Creek Basin.
We had lost the trail at one point, but later, the path appeared in the upper meadow. Then we followed it to the access notch for Terror Creek Basin. Views improved the higher we went on this gorgeous day.
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6250′ Access Notch
The final mile to the notch over 900′ altitude was mild as we strolled the scenic hillside. Soon, we took a break on the pass to prepare for the final stretch into the basin. Then we saw Eric coming up the other side.
Dang, “All of that in one day, Eric? Epic!” I said. He congratulated me on finishing the Bulger List and asked about my next move. “You could go for the T200,” he said. Then he pointed at the spire behind him, “That one is on it.” Why, Eric, why?!
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West McMillan Spire Camp
We passed a few tents below the notch on the way to camp. I thought there would be more people here because it felt like the most popular area in the Picket. But we were the only ones here for the rest of the trip.
We spent the rest of the day hanging by the camp. During this, I walked around and took photos, admiring the breathtaking landscape. Mount Triumph was another notable peak nearby.
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Day 2
West McMillan Spire
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Whiteout in Terror Glacier
Dark clouds gathered at the horizon after dark. It was a clear night sky until the mist crept into the area at night. We aimed to start on Inspiration Peak and West McMillan Spire early the following day.
We awoke at 4 AM to a basin full of clouds and waited three hours before we started moving. The hope was that the weather would improve when we reached Terror Glacier. The low mists later shifted, but the high clouds stayed.
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West McMillan Spire Climb
By now, we had burned much daylight, so climbing Inspiration Peak was too ambitious. Not sure if we had under-researched, but we couldn’t pinpoint the precise starting location after much effort. So we decided to skip it.
I was okay with the decision as I had initially only come here for West McMillan Spire. Regardless, we would still get one mountain out of the trip anyway. Shortly, we traversed to the east end of the glacier.
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West McMillan Spire Summit Views
Going from the snowfield up to the southwest ridge took some time. It took even more effort to climb steep snow, but we reached the crest. Then it was the typical scramble in scree and choss up to article at the summit.
Views were spotty, but we never saw the adjacent Inspiration Peak. Also, depending on the wind’s direction, Luna Peak, Mount Prophet, and Mount Fury would appear at different times. We left the too after visiting for over an hour.
Back to McMillan Camp
Going down the steep snow was nerve-racking as it was still firm. But I wish I had my ice tools to move more efficiently. So instead, I hugged the buttress while going down through rock ledges.
As the day progressed, the views slowly improved. Before coming off the snow, Goodell Creek Valley slowly revealed itself in full display. Then we traversed many steep slabs right before crossing the 5600′ tarn.
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Day 3
Exit
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Final Morning in Terror Basin
It went back to sunny again on the third day. So Anne and I went up on the ridgeline between Terror Creek Basin and Stettatle Basin for views. But we also wanted to look closer at the East McMillan Spire and Little Mac Spire.
We saw Azure Lake at the head of the Stettatle Basin from the ridge. There wasn’t enough time to savor the vistas. So I will have to take another trip to climb other peaks here at some point.
Outro
We later took our time packing up at camp; it was hard to leave this place behind. Alas, the show had to go on with mountains we needed to climb. Before long, we had gone over the 6250′ notch and down the other side.
Moving through vertical places in reverse would be hard for people with knee problems. The walk through the lower Goodell Creek Trail was uneventful. And now Eric had me start thinking about the T200 peaks. Dang you, Eric!
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
