2014/7/19-22 – Bonanza Slam / 富礦滿貫

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Kodak moment on Bonanza Peak

Photos from this trip can be found here.

Bonanza Slam = Bonanza Peak + Martin Peak 8511

Logistics overview
Saturday, July 19
Ferry – Fields Landing to Port of Lucerne
Bus1 – Port of Lucerne to Holden Village

Sunday, July 20
Bonanza Peak climb

Monday, July 21
Martin Peak 8511 climb
Bike2 – Holden Village Refrigerator Campground (overnight)

Tuesday, July 22
Ferry – Stopover in Stehekin
Bike – Stehekin dock to Stehekin Bakery and back
Ferry – Stehekin to Fields Point

1 Service operates on Saturday and Sunday only.
2 Foot traffic allowed on road after 7 PM.


A trip with many firsts. First “Lady of the Lake” ferry ride on Lake Chelan, first bus ride to a climb, and first visit to Holden Village and Stehekin. By far he most logistically involved trip.

Day 1
The five of us on the Chickamin Slam climb two weekends earlier teamed up again to tackle second tallest non-vocanic peak in the state and its next-door neighbor.

Ferry left Points Field quarter to 10 AM and arrived in Port of Lucerne three hours later. We managed to fit all five bikes on the bus and rode the next 10 miles to Holden Village. Most folks we talked to were volunteers or workers at the mining remediation project.

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Where everybody knows your name

Photos from this trip can be found here.

As the bus approached the main lodge, a group of villagers (aka seasonal workers) greeted us warmly. We stashed personal belongings behind a large shed and ate in the dining hall before closing time. Afterward we set off for Holden Pass in a tiny bit of sunshine that later turned into rain.

Rain came down harder before getting to Holden Lake. We unanimously agreed to press on to Holden Pass to allow more time on next day’s climb. Got through swampy brush and negotiated a large alder swatch with just enough cairns and flagging leading the way. Rain stopped shortly after we arrived on the pass. Too cloudy to scope out next day’s route, we spent rest of the evening drying off and then turned in.

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Cloud-capped Bonanza Peak

Photos from this trip can be found here.

Day 2
We woke up to a cloud-capped Bonanza Peak, with blue sky hanging right above. Left camp after breakfast, came upon the waterfalls soon after with no problem getting through. Clouds slowly dissipated as we roped up on Mary Green Glacier, quite stoked about the views above. Moats weren’t much of a concern, just a big leap transitioning onto rocks.

One of my favorite rock scrambles to date. Other than a few small rockfalls, rocks in general were solid with lots of good holds, albeit steep. Best part was discovering a cave halfway up steep east face. Couple of sketchy sections to belay across, overall a fun and technical rock scramble.

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Glacier Peak

Photos from this trip can be found here.

Standing atop Washington’s tallest non-volcanic peak felt extremely surreal. We were elated that everything has worked in our favor up until now. After an extended stay soaking in views and naming peaks, we slowly descended the peak back to the glacier. A cam placed on the way up got stuck, we tried retrieving it on the way down but to no avail.

Mary Green Glacier was much smaller than I had imagined, together with late afternoon sun and Martin Peak 8511 they formed beautiful landscape. Got the much needed rest back at camp for next day’s climb.

Day 3
Another sunny day ahead! The three of us got ready for day two’s climb while Kenny and Patrick slept in and later left for Holden Village. Straightforward route finding on Martin Peak 8511, another fun and exciting rock scramble. An entirely visible approach, with just a couple of less commiting, low 4ths moves. We thoroughly enjoyed another extended summit stay with great views from another perspective.

Always a pleasure to climb with folks excited about naming peaks. Bonanza was undoubtedly the main attraction to the west. Not much to see beyond its 9,511′ stature except other tall(er) peaks. We got a much closer look at the eastern peaks however, including Devore Slam and several other top 100 peaks in Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness region.

Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511
Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511

Photos from this trip can be found here.

After a smooth descent back to camp, we quickly packed up and hiked back down to Holden Village. We reconvened with Kenny and Patrick and the five of us hung out in the village until foot traffic was once again allowed on the road. The 10-mile bike ride downhill back to Chelan lake shore was relaxing and schweeeeeet! We spent our lady night at Refrigerator Campground by Lucerne.

Day 4
Our last morning we caught the slow ferry to Stehekin. My first visit so I was beyond ecstatic. During the 90-minute layover, we rode our bikes from the dock to Stehekin Bakery, where I was introduced some of the finest pastries in the state.

On the way back, rest of the group headed straight to the ferry dock. I took some time to check out “The Garden” by the main road before rushing back to the dock after the whistle had just sounded. The three-hour ride back to Fields Point went by fast with a couple of naps.

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Back to civilization

What a great trip that was! Glad we all made it back to civilization safely. I will be back a few more times to get the rest of the Bulger peaks.

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