Bonanza Slam via Holden Village / 經霍頓村上富礦滿貫

Bonanza Slam held many first experiences for me. My first ferry ride on Lake Chelan. My first bus ride to a climb. Also, my first visit to the remote Holden Village and Stehekin. It as even a more logistically involved trip.

Group Kodak moment on Bonanza Peak
Group Kodak moment on Bonanza Peak

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Bonanza Slam at a Glance

Bonanza Slam = Bonanza Peak + Martin Peak 8511
富礦滿貫=富礦峯+馬丁峯8511

Access:  Holden Lake Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 3240′-9511′
Gear: helmet, ice ax, snow, rock
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no

Logistics Overview

July 19-22, 2014

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Day 1 – Saturday, July 19
Ferry – Fields Point Landing to Port of Lucerne
Bus1 – Port of Lucerne to Holden Village
Holden Lake Trail to Holden Pass
Night 1 – Holden Pass

Day 2 – Sunday, July 20
Bonanza Peak
Night 2 – Holden Pass

Day 3 – Monday, July 21
Martin Peak 8511
Holden Lake Trail to Holden Village
Bike2 – Holden Village to Refrigerator Campground
Night 3 – Refrigerator Campground

Day 4 – Tuesday, July 22
Ferry – Port of Lucerne to Stehekin
Bike – Stehekin dock to Stehekin Bakery and back
Ferry – Stehekin to Fields Point Landing

1 Service operates on Saturday and Sunday only.
2 Foot traffic allowed on the road after 7 PM due to mining remediation.


Day 1

Ferry + Bus + Holden Lake Trail

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Lake Chelan upstream
Lake Chelan upstream

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Ferry Ride to Lucerne

The five of us climbed the Chickamin Slam together. Then we teamed up again two weeks later to tackle Bonanza Slam. Bonanza Peak also happened to be the second tallest non-volcanic peak in Washington State. Then the three of us went up to Martin Peak as well.

Lady of the Lake ferry left Points Field at 9:45 AM. Then we reached the Port of Lucerne in two hours. We managed to fit all five bikes on the bus. Then we rode 10 miles up to Holden Village with other visitors. Most people we met were volunteers in the village. Or workers at the mining remediation project.

Holden Village staff
Holden Village staff

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Holden Village to Holden Pass

Soon, the bus pulled up to the main lodge. Then the villagers, aka seasonal workers, greeted us warmly. We first stashed our personal belongings behind a large shed. Then we ate at the dining hall before closing. Soon, we set off for Holden Pass under a tiny bit of sunshine. But the weather slowly worsened.

The rain came down hard before we reached Holden Lake. But we all agreed to continue to Holden Pass. So we would be closer to our goals. Past the lake, we went through the wet brush and a large alder swatch. Cairns and flagging then guided the way. The rain stopped when we got up to the pass. Then we used the rest of the evening drying off clothes.

Holden Lake
Holden Lake

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Day 2

Bonanza Peak

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Bonanza Peak of Bonanza Slam
Bonanza Peak of Bonanza Slam

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Bonanza Peak of Bonanza Slam

The next morning, we woke up to Bonanza Peak with clouds on top. But there was a blue sky high above. Then after breakfast, we left camp full of excitement. Soon, we went through the waterfalls without issues. Clouds slowly moved away as we roped up on Mary Green Glacier. The moats turned out not to be a concern. So one by one, we all leaped onto the rocks.

Bonanza Peak was of my favorite rock climb to date. There were minor rockfalls along the way. But overall, rocks were solid, and the holds were excellent. My favorite part was finding a cave halfway up the route. We also belayed through a couple of steep sections. Then we continued to work our way up the northeast ridge.

Glacier Peak
Glacier Peak

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Bonanza Peak Summit

Being on top of the tallest non-volcanic peak was surreal. We were also ecstatic that everything worked out in the end. We spent a long time on top taking in views and naming peaks. Then we made our way back down to the glacier. A cam we placed during the climb wouldn’t come out. We also tried getting it out on the way down. But that didn’t work.

Mary Green Glacier was much smaller than I had thought. The afternoon sun had shed beautiful colors on Martin Peak. So we continued to enjoy the view as we walked down the snow. Tonight, we all got the much-needed rest. But we were also more than ready for the next day’s climb.

Back to Mary Green Glacier
Back to Mary Green Glacier

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Day 3

Martin Peak 8511

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On Martin Peak 8511 of Bonanza Slam
On Martin Peak 8511 of Bonanza Slam

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Martin Peak of Bonanza Slam

It was another sunny day! Lindsay, Mike, and I woke up early to climb Martin Peak. Kenny and Patrick climbed them last year. So they slept in and then went back to the village later. It turned out to be another exciting rock climb. There were just two low class 4 moves. Soon, we enjoyed another extended stay. There were also more great views from this angle.

It’s always fun climbing with people who are also into naming peaks. To the west, Bonanza Peak was the main attraction. But we couldn’t see much past it. But we got a closer look at the eastern high points. Views there included the Devore Slam. Plus, there were other highest peaks in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness.

Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511
Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511

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Outro

We had a smooth downclimb back to camp. Later, we packed up and hiked back to Holden Village. There we met up with Kenny and Patrick. Then the five of us hung out in the village until we could go on the road after 7 PM. So glad to have brought our bikes. It made the 10-mile ride down to the lakeshore go by fast!

Later, we stayed the night at the empty Refrigerator Campground. It was just next to the Port of Lucerne. So in the morning, we would have more time to get ready for the ferry.

Post-Bonanza Slam in Refrigerator Harbor
Post-Bonanza Slam in Refrigerator Harbor

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Day 4

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Stehekin Pastry Company
Stehekin Pastry Company

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Ferry Ride to Stehekin

On our last morning, we took the ferry to go up to Stehekin. It was my first visit. So I was beyond ecstatic! We had a 90-minute layover. So we all rode our bikes up to Stehekin Bakery. Then I got to enjoy some of the most exquisite pastries in the state.

On the way back, the rest of the group went right back to the ferry dock. But I stopped to see “The Garden” on the main road. Then I rushed back to the pier just after the whistle sounded. But the three-hour ride back to Fields Point went by fast with a couple of naps.

Back to civilization on Lake Chelan
Back to civilization on Lake Chelan

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What a great trip that was! Glad we all made it back to civilization safely. I will be back a few more times to climb the other Bulger peaks.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

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