Bonanza Slam via Holden Village / 經霍頓村上富礦滿貫

Kodak moment on Bonanza Peak

See more trip photos here.

All in all, this trip held many first experiences for me. My first Lady of the Lake ferry ride on Lake Chelan. My first bus ride to a climb, plus my first visit to the remote Holden Village and Stehekin. So far, it was the most logistically involved trip.

The Lowdown on Bonanza Slam

Bonanza Slam = Bonanza Peak + Martin Peak 8511
富礦滿貫=富礦峯+馬丁峯8511

Access:  Holden Lake Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 3240′-9511′
Gear: helmet, ice ax, snow, rock
GPS Track: available

Logistics Overview

July 19-22, 2014

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Day 1 – Saturday, July 19
Ferry – Fields Point Landing to Port of Lucerne
Bus1 – Port of Lucerne to Holden Village
Holden Lake Trail to Holden Pass
Night 1 – Holden Pass

Day 2 – Sunday, July 20
Bonanza Peak
Night 2 – Holden Pass

Day 3 – Monday, July 21
Martin Peak 8511
Holden Lake Trail to Holden Village
Bike2 – Holden Village to Refrigerator Campground
Night 3 – Refrigerator Campground

Day 4 – Tuesday, July 22
Ferry – Port of Lucerne to Stehekin
Bike – Stehekin dock to Stehekin Bakery and back
Ferry – Stehekin to Fields Point Landing

1 Service operates on Saturday and Sunday only.
2 Foot traffic allowed on the road after 7 PM due to mining remediation.


Day 1

Ferry + Bus + Holden Lake Trail

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Lake Chelan upstream
Lake Chelan upstream

See more trip photos here.

The five of us climbing the Chickamin Slam teamed up once again two weeks later. This time we tackled Bonanza Peak, the second tallest non-volcanic peak in Washington State. Three of us also climbed its next-door neighbor, Martin Peak 8511.

Lady of the Lake ferry left Points Field at a quarter to 10 AM. Then we arrived in Port of Lucerne three hours later. Somehow we managed to fit all five bikes on the bus. Then we rode the next 10 miles to Holden Village. Most folks we met here were either volunteers or seasonal-workers at the mining remediation project.

Holden Village staff
Holden Village staff

See more trip photos here.

As the bus approached the main lodge, a group of villagers (aka seasonal workers) greeted us warmly. We stashed our personal belongings behind a large shed and then ate in the dining hall before closing time. Afterward, we set off for Holden Pass in a bit of sunshine that later turned into rain.

The rain came down hard before we got to Holden Lake. But we unanimously agreed to press on to Holden Pass to be closer to our objectives. We got through wet brush and bypassed a large alder swatch using cairns and flagging. Shortly after we arrived on the pass, the rain stopped. But it was too cloudy to scope out the route. Then we spent the rest of the evening drying off and turned in shortly after.

Holden Lake
Holden Lake

See more trip photos here.

Day 2

Bonanza Peak

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Cloud-capped Bonanza Peak
Cloud-capped Bonanza Peak

See more trip photos here.

Next morning, we woke up to a cloud-capped Bonanza Peak with blue sky and sunshine high above. We excitedly left camp right after breakfast. Soon, we came upon the waterfalls and had no issues getting through. Clouds gradually disappeared just as we were roping up on Mary Green Glacier. We were all pretty excited about the views ahead. The moats weren’t a concern after all. We all just took a big leap to get on to the rocks.

Bonanza Peak was of my favorite rock scrambles to date. Apart from the small rockfalls, rocks, in general, were pretty solid and were great holds. My favorite part was discovering a cave halfway up the east face. We belayed through a couple of sketchy sections. The terrain was steep throughout, though, but overall a fun rock climb.

Glacier Peak
Glacier Peak

See more trip photos here.

Standing on top of Washington’s tallest non-volcanic peak felt surreal. We were all so ecstatic that everything (weather, route finding, etc.) worked out in our favor. After an extended stay soaking in views and naming peaks, we slowly descended back to the glacier. A cam we placed while ascending became stuck. We tried retrieving it on the way down but to no avail.

Mary Green Glacier was much smaller than I had thought. Together, late afternoon sun and Martin Peak 8511 formed a beautiful landscape. We all got the much-needed rest back at camp for next day’s climb.

Back to Mary Green Glacier
Back to Mary Green Glacier

See more trip photos here.

Day 3

Martin Peak 8511

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Morning grunt on Martin Peak 8511
Morning grunt on Martin Peak 8511

See more trip photos here.

Another sunny day ahead! Lindsay, Mike, and I got up early to climb Martin Peak 8511. Kenny and Patrick got to sleep in and then left for Holden Village. Route finding on Martin Peak 8511 was straightforward. It turned out to be a fun and thrilling rock scramble. An entirely visible approach, with just a couple of less committing, low 4ths moves. We thoroughly enjoyed another extended summit stay with great views from another perspective.

It’s always fun climbing with folks who are also excited about naming peaks. Bonanza Peak was the main attraction to the west. But there wasn’t much to see behind its 9511′ stature. However, we did get a closer look at the eastern high points. Views there including the Devore Slam and other top 100 peaks in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness.

Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511
Kodak moment on Martin Peak 8511

See more trip photos here.

After a smooth descent back to camp, we quickly packed up and hiked back down to Holden Village. There we reconvened with Kenny and Patrick. Then the five of us hung out in the village until foot traffic was once again allowed on the road. The 10-mile bike ride downhill back to the lakeshore was relaxing and fast!

We spent our last night at Refrigerator Campground down by the Port of Lucerne.

Refrigerator Harbor
Refrigerator Harbor

See more trip photos here.

Day 4

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4

Stehekin Pastry Company
Stehekin Pastry Company

See more trip photos here.

Our last morning, we took the slow ferry to Stehekin. My first visit so I was beyond ecstatic. During the 90-minute layover, we rode our bikes up to Stehekin Bakery. There I had some of the most exquisite pastries in the state.

On the way back, rest of the group headed straight to the ferry dock. I took some time to check out “The Garden” by the main road. Then I had to rush back to the pier right after the whistle sounded. The 3-hour ride back to Fields Point went by fast with a couple of naps.

What a great trip that was! Glad we all made it back to civilization safely. I will be back a few more times to get the rest of the Bulger peaks.

Back to civilization on Lake Chelan
Back to civilization on Lake Chelan

See more trip photos here.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Leave a Reply

Close Menu
%d bloggers like this: