Ingalls Peak East Ridge by Fortune Peak via Lake Ingalls / 英格斯峯東脊

  • Reading time:5 mins read

Ingalls Peak East Ridge by Fortune Peak overlooks Lake Ingalls. It sits west of the notable Mount Stuart in Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Moreover, the peak views the entire Teanaway Backcountry and the nearby Jack Ridge to the east.

Mount Stuart and Lake Ingalls from Ingalls Peak
Mount Stuart and Lake Ingalls from Ingalls Peak

See more trip photos here.

Ingalls Peak at a Glance

Access: Esmeralda Basin Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 4280′-7662′
Gear: helmet, rock & rope
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no

The Preface

The four of us, rope leads, stayed the night in Headlight Basin after climbing East Peak Southwest Face. Then the next day, we returned to climb the east ridge. We started early and were able to finish at a reasonable hour.

We started at the same spot as we did with the students below the famous chockstone forever rests. I was glad my partner led the first section since it looked tougher when I wasn’t leading the pitch. But I was sure it was all mental.

Before sunrise in Headlight Basin
Before sunrise in Headlight Basin

See more trip photos here.

The Climb

En route were several “interesting” places. The steep traverse along the north face, the catwalk, the awkward notch, plus the crux. Glad I went through all the problem areas without a hitch despite not having enough sleep.

What was the crux, you might ask? According to the trip reports, it was the place where the #4 cam was our ultimate best friend. I had hoped not to lead this pitch because it sounded somewhat intimidating!

The off-width crux
The off-width crux

See more trip photos here.

Ingalls Peak Summit Plus Exit

Alas, stars aligned, and I ended up leading this pitch. The big rocks were positioned, so I needed to lie back 45 degrees while holding myself up with one hand. Then I’d place the #4 cam at the top of the crack. But I did it; today was my day, woo hoo!

After reaching the top, I decided it was more fun than expected. The crux made the rest of the climb feel like a walk in the park. The group took a half-hour break and descended the standard route back to Headlight Basin to walk out.

Group Kodak moment on Ingalls Peak
Group Kodak moment on Ingalls Peak

See more trip photos here.

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