Kyes Peak by Columbia Peak and Goblin Mountain spans atop Blanca Lake Basin. Below the west in the deep cirque rests the receding Columbia Glacier. Moreover, most climbers nowadays come from the south via Blanca Lake Trail.
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Kyes Peak at a Glance
Access: Blanca Lake Trailhead
Round Trip: 12.4 miles
Elevation Range: 1920′-7280′
Essential Gear: helmet, microspikes
Route Info: Brad Wagenaar, Mike Black
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: with guidance
Playlist: Beats
Return to Henry M. Jackson Wilderness
I haven’t dressed up for Halloween since high school as a pirate for work. But nowadays, I celebrate the occasion by going to the mountains when the weather allows. After scoping out the conditions over the weekend, I thought we’d go now before the next snowfall.
Kyes Peak was another place I hadn’t researched since our trip to Blanca Lake in 2010. But like Snowking Mountain, a climber’s trail goes high up the mountain. The surprise find meant we’d have a path to follow before snow appeared, wherever that may be.
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Hiking Blanca Lake Trail in the Dark
Much of the recent snow had melted due to the warm daytime weather. We started from the Blanca Lake Trail in subfreezing temperatures in the dark. A thin layer of snow appeared after three miles, with a 2700′ altitude gain shortly after sunrise.
Snow dwindled as we left the trail north of Virgin Lake. Soon, we found the climber’s trail as it hugged the crest above Blanca Lake. Past the meadow at 4800′, it moved to the east below the cliffs. Then it rose steeply for 200′ before returning to the ridge past 5200′.
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Kyes Peak South Route Above Blanca Lake
Views improved as the trail moved up the dry ground. More snow appeared below Blanca Lake East as the path flipped west past the old burn. We descended the grass slope through the rock field. Then, after a short section of trees, we were back in inches of snow.
The trail reappeared on the 5400′ saddle before rising 600′ steeply to the minor ridge. But the premature drop onto the upper slopes made us go under the cliffs instead. There wasn’t enough snow to use snowshoes, but too much that we postholed en route.
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The Final Stretch Through Icy Slabs
It was an agonizing rising traverse between snow, rocks, and scree. After a brief bypass from the east through the 6600′ notch, we 1soon returned to the ridgeline. Seeing the summit before crossing the icy slabs left by the receding glacier was a delight.
Soon, we went around the benchmark at 7000′ to regain the crest on mainly dry ground. It was an enjoyable traverse as we dodged the drop-offs into Columbia Glacier. Connor took the lead, and we shortly reached the airy summit adorned with a memorial necklace.
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Viewing the Hazy Wilderness From the Top
It was worth waiting years to be on one of the highest vantage points in the Monte Cristo Range. Meanwhile, the vertical drop from the narrow crest into Pride Glacier was nerve-racking. Despite the haze, clouds were high to reveal the significant places in the area.
The sheer wall of Columbia Peak took up the west vista. To the north was the unequivocal sight of Sloan Peak and the surprise view of Chalangin Peak from weeks ago. Meanwhile, Excelsior Mountain and Goblin Mountain across the valley looked short in comparison.
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Leaving Kyes Peak and Retracing Steps
I thought we could see Blanca Lake from here, but too bad we couldn’t. It wasn’t until we went back around Monte Cristo Benchmark that we saw the lake basin again. Viewing it with South Kyes Tower from the benchmark was even more breathtaking.
We dillydallied through the snow and stayed high to descend the minor ridge. Back at 5100′, we mistakenly took a spur trail west and dead-ended by the cliffs. A quick turning around and down the east soon brought us back to Virgin Lake for the walkout.
See more trip photos here.