Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain rank as the second and third highest peaks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness after Mount Daniel. Together, they form a formidable part of the rugged backbone of the Central Cascades, eight miles north of Snoqualmie Pass. Additionally, the Pete Lake Trail near Salmon La Sac provides direct access.
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Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain at a Glance
Access: Pete Lake Trailhead
Round Trip: 31 miles
Elevation Range: 2840′-7727′
Essential Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax, rock & rope
Route Info: Adam Walker, Craig Weiland, Jeff Heidel, Monty Vanderbilt
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no
Friday, August 12
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
4800′ Camp + Chimney Rock
Returning to Alpine Lakes Wilderness
I captured my first photo of Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain during the initial visit to Teanaway. But they remained on my “someday” list for the next thirteen years as other destinations kept me occupied.
This week, the peaks came to mind as I searched for new adventures close to home. I took a personal day from work and boarded the dogs in the afternoon after packing. Then I spent three days exploring a region I hadn’t visited in all my years in the Cascades.
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Hiking Toward My First Goal: Chimney Rock
As anticipated, I arrived at a bustling trailhead at 3:30 AM with many cars parked in the lot. Our beautiful summer weather also lured numerous other campers to the area. After arranging my gear and double-checking the maps, I set off on my weekend journey.
Three years ago, the yellow pup and I hiked this trail to Polallie Ridge above Cooper Lake. So this would be my first time going past the Tired Creek Trail fork. I was eager to discover the areas beyond Pete Lake and Lemah Meadows.
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Pete Lake Trail to Pacific Crest Trail (PCT)
Hiking in the dark seemed to accelerate the time. Before sunrise, I moved past the unexciting flat trail as Island Mountain appeared overhead and soon walked around the east shore, dotted with several tents. I then proceeded to Lemah Meadows, passing the Spectacle Lake Trail..
At the 6.5-mile mark, I turned north onto the PCT and met two hikers by a campsite. One of them was heading southbound to complete section J. Meanwhile, the other started in Oregon and hoped to reach Canada by the end of the month
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Cross-Country Approach to 4800′ Camp
I quickly reached the first switchback, and after 100 feet past the vine maples, I ventured into the open forest. Within half a mile, I reached the North Fork Lemah Creek, crossing the shallow water on a slim log.
Following Craig‘s report, I immediately located the climber’s path on the opposite side. Flagging marked the initial part of the trail, though it had faded in places due to many windfalls. But I managed to follow the rest through a couple of bypasses.
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4800′ Boulder Camp Below Chimney Rock
The ascent eased after the steepest section between 4200 and 4400 feet. I navigated a brief stretch of thick vegetation before reaching the meadow at 4800′. A large, flat-topped boulder seemed like an ideal spot for the night.
Initially, I had considered a single-day climb of Chimney Rock. However, with three days available, I decided to savor the experience. I brought extra equipment, including an ice tool, a picket, and four pairs of shoes: approach, camp, mountaineering, and rock climbing.
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Climbing Through Rocks and Moraine
The top of Chimney Rock became visible only after I ascended 200 feet onto the moraine. My immediate thought upon seeing it was, “Holy isht, for real?”. I proceeded north across rocky terrain, followed by a grassy slope with small streams.
At 5800 feet, I rounded the east ridge and saw the neighboring Summit Chief Mountain, with its impressive south wall. I then descended on snow around Peak 6760 to the north saddle at 6150 feet.
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Leaving Rocks for Chimney Rock Glacier
Several GPS tracks I consulted went higher, to 6400 feet below the north peak. But after assessing the glacier, I realized today’s extra snow allowed for a shortcut. Soon, I descended 50 feet and took a large step over a small gap onto the snowfield.
I traversed the 0.75-mile-long glacier beneath Chimney Rock’s three striking summits. Meanwhile, I easily navigated around several small crevasses. Then, I arrived at the gully entrance, looking up toward the U-Gap.
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Traversing Mild Glacier to U-Gap
I ascended the steep slope before finding a spot to transition onto the slabs. The moat up high was not visible, but it felt necessary to leave the snow while still possible. I then hugged the headwall and climbed the gully, navigating a great deal of loose rock.
Despite the increased snowfall this year, the climb slowly improved higher in the gully. Meanwhile, I avoided the steep snow ramp below the top by navigating through a shallow moat. As Monty noted, the scramble from there to the gap was solid.
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Navigating the Improbable Ledge to Key Ledge
Above the U-Gap, slabs led me to the corner by the famous Improbable Ledge. Rounding the south peak involved negotiating a few exposed sections. I quickly followed the ramp and descended toward the gully below the summit tower.
Based on the route descriptions, it was unclear how far up the white rocks I needed to climb. But first, I navigated class 3 to 4 terrain before finding the feasible way over the dividing buttress. I then walked up the ramp to a ledge with several bivy spots, a surprise find!
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Ascending Final Stretch on Chimney Rock
The technical portion of the climb began at the end of the ledge, near an unmistakable dead end. I switched to rock shoes (Glad I brought them!) and ascended using solid holds. At the same time, I carefully avoided pulling on grassy or dirty areas.
The second pitch featured more slabs, but ample holds allowed for an efficient ascent. With Monty’s detailed photos, I easily located the start of the final pitch. From there, the climbing eased as I moved through the chimney over small chockstones.
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Stunning Vistas From Chimney Rock Summit
As I reached the broad summit, the west had become misty. As the highest point in the vicinity, the views were still unparalleled. Seeing Burnt Boot Peak, which we had recently visited with my two faithful climbing partners, was a surreal experience.
Iceberg Lake, which I first saw from Mount Thomson, was now within reach. I also spotted the unmistakable Chikamin Peak poking out from behind Lemah Mountain. The summit register was rolled too tightly to be removed from its bottle without tearing.
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Leaving Chimney Rock
I kept my summit stay brief before beginning my descent. I made three rappels instead of four while accidentally passing the first anchor. But I was soon relieved that the 60m rope reached a small platform above the ledge, allowing me to downclimb the rest.
Returning to the glacier from the loose rock gully by the steep snow ramp went surprisingly smoothly. Earlier, I had anticipated difficulty getting back onto the snow. But I managed it by facing inward until the incline lessened, thanks to my trusty ice ax and tool.
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Saturday, August 13
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Lemah Mountain + Upper Lemah Meadows Camp
Returning to the Pacific Crest Trail
I woke up early but felt lethargic after the previous day’s climb. So I decided to take my time and head back to the PCT whenever I felt like it. The windy morning was also my excuse to linger until the sun reached the meadow.
I began moving at 9 AM, covering the one mile back to the trail. Although I expected no problem retracing my steps, I still lost the path in a few places. After crossing Lemah Creek, a short scramble then brought me back to the beaten path.
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Southbound to South Lemah Bridge
Soon, my attention was drawn to two black bears farther down the trail. I quickly blew my whistle and struck my poles together fiercely before a PCT hiker, “Little Legs,” appeared. She hadn’t heard the animals shuffling through the woods with headphones on. Yikes.
The two of us chatted about their adventures before parting ways. It was refreshing to hear her question the decision to hike the PCT. Though she and her husband, “Hot Sauce,” had only started in southern Oregon.
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Upper Lemah Meadows with Whinnimic Falls
At the PCT bridge washout, I said hello to two folks and went west straight into the woods. As Jeff noted in their report, the trail vanished after about 1000 feet. Soon, the sparse cairns guided me along the path of the least resistance.
After some time, a faint trail and a few cairns reappeared in the open. But instead, I followed the slabs up to Point 3854, where Lemah Mountain’s distinct five fingers and Whinnimic Falls came into view. From there, I descended 100 feet to the lush meadow.
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Slow Approach to the Snow Gully
After a break by the serene Lemah Creek, I aimed for the snow gully. It looked more direct than I had imagined, but still at a considerable distance. I then carefully went through the wetland while avoiding the dense vegetation to the east.
En route, I effortlessly crossed the creek several times through the valley. Then, my attempt to bypass a large slide alder swath from the shore was unsuccessful, so I pushed through a small section before unwillingly removing my shoes to cross the thigh-high water.
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Traversing Snow Gully to Lemah Glacier
The traverse from the meadow to the top of the snow gully covered just over two miles. But it’s the lower rocky terrain that made it feel much longer. Things looked more promising once I put on crampons and continued on the snow.
Meanwhile, I avoided walking directly over the raging water beneath the snowfield. The sound was more apparent lower down where the snow was thinner. Rock debris below the east wall prompted me to maintain a safe distance.
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Lemah Mountain Southeast Route
From the top of the gully, I ascended 100 feet over slabs and running water before returning to the snow. I then veered south on a gentle incline below the two towers—Lemah Five and Lemah Four. Afterward, I scrambled up ledges on the southeast ridge.
After climbing 200 feet, I put on crampons and once again returned to the snow for another 300 feet. At the moat, I transitioned to the rocks near a running stream. The next 200 feet of ascent over sloping slabs were the steepest part of the climb.
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The Final Stretch on Lemah Mountain
I ascended another 200 feet on the snowfield with crampons below the south ridge. There, I removed my snow gear and walked a short distance to the notch above 7200 feet. Then the rest of the climb was direct, with some exposure.
Clouds had rolled in from the west earlier, so I thought I wouldn’t see anything today. I thought, “Dang it. There go the views I worked so hard for.”. But as I ascended the rocks, the mist suddenly lowered, revealing the peaks east of the crest.
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Viewing Chimney Rock From Lemah Mountain
An inversion had slowly formed under the evening sky. Soon, everything to the west was obscured by a sea of clouds, showing only the tip of the taller peaks. From here, Three Queens, Mount Rainier, and Chimney Rock were the main attractions.
As tempting as the bivy spot appeared, I wanted to get as far as possible before dark. I wish I had more time to savor the views, as I may not return. However, with a noon start from the trail, I didn’t have much time to linger.
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The Descent to Upper Lemah Meadows
I retraced my steps once again, reaching the meadows at a reasonable hour. However, I was too low on energy to find a way around the frustrating slide alder, so I decided to stop and bivvied above the wetland.
It was another bright, moonlit night, which made it difficult to sleep. I eventually dozed off to the competing sounds of Whinnimic Falls and Lemah Creek. In the morning, I awoke at 4:30 and watched a few episodes of “Uncoupled” until sunrise.
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Sunday, August 14
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
PCT + Exit
Returning to South Lemah Bridge
Before leaving for Lemah Mountain, I had set up my tent at the group camp by the Pete Lake Trail. I wondered if an animal (or someone) would disturb it while I was away. But then I remembered the used toilet paper near the entrance and thought, “Probably not.”.
Back at the bridge washout, I met “JJ Giveaway” on his break. We talked, and he told me about his double-knee surgery in March. “And you’re hiking the PCT now?! Wow! Congratulations!” It was his fourth and final segment to complete the 2650-mile-long trail.
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Packing up Below Chimney Rock
I later met another PCT hiker, “Chameleon,” by the north fork bridge. Like some others I had met on this trip, he had started hiking in Oregon. Fortunately, everyone had all reached Washington before the recent McKinney Fire forced a significant reroute.
Back at camp, I enjoyed the incredible view of Chimney Rock by the creek. I was so hungry that I ate my breakfast plus last night’s dinner I had missed. I then packed up before it got too warm and walked the short distance to the fork.
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Exiting via Pete Lake Trail
I was glad to have set aside my third day for a leisurely exit. In turn, it allowed me plenty of time to pick up the dogs from boarding. I soon encountered the first people from Spectacle Lake as they forded the creek back to the Pete Lake Trail.
All the campers at Pete Lake had departed by the time I passed the serene water. I then met several groups heading up to the lake for the day. After encountering a lone hiker and his yellow Labrador, the last mile back to the car seemed forever long.
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