Mount Logan by Mount Goode is the ninth tallest peak in North Cascades after Seven Fingered Jack. Meanwhile, this impressive massif overlooks three distinct glaciers. Of those, Fremont Glacier offers the most direct way to the mountain.
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Mount Logan at a Glance
Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: 41 miles
Elevation Range: 1240′-9087′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets
September 12-14, 2015
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Day 1 – Saturday, September 12
Approach to Thunder Basin
Night 1 – Thunder Basin Camp at 6000′
Day 2 – Sunday, September 13
Mount Logan
Night 2 – Junction Camp
Day 3 – Monday, September 14
Exit
Day 1
Approach to Thunder Basin
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Thunder Creek Trail
Of all my solo outings, it was by far the loneliest. The 16-mile walk to Thunder Basin felt long without seeing people en route. Plus, the views were too spotty in the forest to enjoy the scenery and take my mind off the hike.
The sky darkened in the final two miles to the 6000′ camp half a mile north of Park Creek Pass. I managed to find a decent campsite under the city-light-tinted night sky. But the Milky Way above Mount Buckner was still visible.
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Day 2
Mont Logan
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Mount Logan Climb
The weather took a drastic turn the following day with low clouds and wind gusts in the area. The forecast showed a sunny weekend, so it wasn’t much of a concern. But I waited another hour for the sky to clear before hurrying up the mountain.
Most groups bypass the southwest ridge at 6600′. But I went too high and later dropped 200′ via a notch at 7800′ to avoid cliffs. From the west slopes, I headed north toward Fremont Glacier as views slowly improved.
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Fremont Glacier Plus South Ridge
A lunch break before Point 8248, I then headed northeast and aimed for the hogback atop the glacier. From there, I looked for a decent spot to cross the moat. But it had me worried as it was late in the season.
Later I found a receding snow bridge that barely touched the rock ledge on the other side. Then the rest of the way up to the 8750′ notch was exposed, class 3 ground. From the crest, I followed a faint trail up to the airy summit.
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Mount Logan Summit Views Plus Exit
Holy isht! I made it up this enormous mountain with views that went on for miles. But I very much enjoyed the scenery to the north. I’d sometimes glance over at Goode Mountain‘s sheer north side and hoped to climb it before the snow came.
I would’ve stayed longer, but I needed to return to camp. But the snow bridge was my crux on the way out because of the angle. So I dug the ax deep in the ice and scooched back onto the glacier.
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A Long Way Back to Highway 20
After packing, I took a nap before setting off on the 18-mile trek. I later reached Skagit Queen Camp until dark and walked another four miles up to Junction Camp. Meanwhile, I regained the 1000′ lost elevation.
It was now 11 PM, so I wasn’t thinking about walking the rest nine miles. So I spent night two at Junction Camp, the halfway point between high camp and Thunder Creek Trailhead. So yeah, I was “almost” there! But not quite.
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Day 3
Exit
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Outro
Early the following day, I skipped breakfast and started walking. I wanted to go back to the car to have a decent meal. But I couldn’t move fast because my big toes started having issues from the stiff boots.
So one step at a time. 1, 2, 1, 2…
See more trip photos here.