Daemon Peak near Shull Mountain rises prominently in the vast Pasayten Wilderness. This peak is a popular goal for climbers due to its prominence of over 2000 feet. Additionally, the greater Pasayten Wilderness itself is a massive, protected area that holds a rich history as the traditional hunting grounds of the Nlaka’pamux peoples.
See more trip photos here.
Daemon Peak and Holman Peak at a Glance
Environs = Little Buffalo Mountain + Buffalo Head + Tamarack Peak + Jim Peak + Tall Jim + Eccentric Mountain
周圍地區=小野牛山+野牛頭+落葉松峯+吉姆峯+高吉姆+古怪山
Access: Harts Pass Upper Trailhead
Round Trip: 45.5 miles
Elevation Range: 4900′-7550′
Essential Gear: helmet
Route Info: Scott Rice
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: with guidance
Friday, July 26
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Little Buffalo Mountain + Buffalo Head + Tamarack Peak + Jim Peak + Tall Jim + Holman Peak
The Long and Winding Harts Pass Road
Connor and I started our trip on the usual gravel road to Harts Pass via Mazama, Washington, a common entry point into the northwest corner of the wilderness. Soon past the last residential area, the pavement ended beyond the bridge and quickly transitioned into a bumpy, washboard roadway. Many potholes made for a tedious and uncomfortable drive toward the wilderness boundary.
Several miles before Harts Pass, the road worsened through a short, rocky segment. The narrow stretch through rockfalls and slide areas hugged the edge of a cliff. The 10-mph sign was there to remind motorists to exercise caution. However, the entire stretch was manageable for all vehicles, with wide pullouts available for a safe passing when meeting oncoming traffic.
A Scenic Traverse to Daemon Peak
One can count on the excellent Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in peak season. It was an obvious choice for our approach toward Daemon Peak as it was a new route. I also wanted to avoid repeating the West Fork Pasayten River due to the massive windfalls we encountered before. Water sources here were scarce, and we relied on tiny streams west of Slate Peak. Nevertheless, we were content to be in the shade for a while.
Our route offered constant views of Mount Ballard and Azurite Peak. From the Benson Creek saddle, we hugged the crest north through named passes and hills, like Tamarack Peak. Mosquitoes were manageable despite the heat, perhaps due to the smoke. But I wore a head net anyway. After descending Foggy Pass and Jim Pass, we regained the crest over more ridge bumps. Then we navigated the 2018 Holman Fire debris and rejoined the PCT 1.5 miles before Holman Pass.
Pushing North for Holman Peak and Making Camp
After dropping off overnight gear on the pass, we continued north for 2.5 miles through an enjoyable and clear trail. The impressive Shull Mountain and Powder Mountain remained the focal points. Soon, the trees thinned out in the lush, broad basin, with an excellent group campsite by a spring. The group of six we met on Jim Pass, on their way to the PCT Northern Terminus, would spend their first night here.
We soon left the trail and reached Holman Peak’s south ridge at 7000 feet. The rocky Point 7440 forced a bypass from the south, then regained the crest via a notch. An unexpected small snowfield nestled below the top added to the dog’s excitement. As always, we savored the spectacular landscape from the broad summit. I forgot the extra camera batteries, so I took the rest of the photos here with my phone.
Afterward, we returned to Holman Pass, ready to camp for the night. The expansive pass itself was as bone-dry as I vividly remembered from three years ago. So we made a mild 0.75-mile descent west on the Devils Ridge Trail toward the creek, contending with the same old debris en route. We then found a roomy campsite by Canyon Creek, 200 feet lower in elevation, closer to our next day’s goal.
Saturday, July 27
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Daemon Peak + Eccentric Mountain
The Walk on Devils Ridge
The Devils Ridge Trail is an 18-mile stretch of the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT). It connects Ross Lake and Holman Pass, intersecting the Jackita Ridge Trail at Devils Pass. On our second day, we continued west for six miles. The lower part west of Canyon Creek was still choked with the same windfalls and brush from before. Thankfully, the debris decreased significantly before the first switchback, almost disappearing above 5700 feet.
A dispersed camp nearby was our last water source before more smoky views of Holman Pass, affected by the Calcite Creek Fire. Then, as the trail dipped west below the mostly wooded Sky Pilot Pass, awe-inspiring western vistas appeared. We descended one thousand feet past forested Deception Pass, where the first mile held dozens of windfalls. The path rounded east of Eccentric Mountain as conditions improved in the second mile.
Climbing the Mighty Daemon Peak
Before the broad gully, we climbed Daemon Peak via its steep south face and talus southeast ridge. Reaching the south saddle, the brief final ridge traverse involved loose scree across exposed but manageable terrain. From the top, the haze-tinted wilderness featured Jack Mountain, Crater Mountain, plus many unfamiliar peaks. Facing west, the views extended beyond Ross Lake toward the Chilliwack high points.
For the return, I opted to traverse the east crest toward Eccentric Mountain, conveniently bypassing the worst of the debris near Deception Pass. After a brief pause on the half-forested summit, we then descended to the trail via the open southeast ridge. Stepping back through rotted wooden walkways, we retraced steps after regaining elevation toward Sky Pilot Pass and retrieving water near the dispersed campsite.
Just before rock-hopping Canyon Creek back to camp, Connor and I met a man and his shy dog among the windfalls. They were hiking the PCT, having first rerouted via Canyon Creek by the North Cascades Highway. From Holman Pass, the plan was to hike until dusk. However, after seeing half a dozen tents two miles in, we pushed another two miles in the dark. Feeling exhausted, we stumbled upon a spur trail with two tucked-away spots.
Sunday, July 28
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Exit
A Journey Back to Civilization
The dog and I woke up to another sunny morning, still exhausted from the night before. I was glad we had walked farther, though, enjoying a straightforward nine-mile trek south on the PCT to Harts Pass. We shared the trail with many other hikers, a contrast to the near solitude of the past two days. The morning alone, we met 14 northbound and four southbound hikers, witnessing the trail’s continued popularity firsthand.
We also greeted a father and son hiking the PNT yesterday while preparing for the climb on Daemon Peak. As the morning continued to warm, we made several water breaks in the shade for Connor whenever possible. Since we were no longer scrambling, the trail allowed us to move through the passes and larch basins more quickly. All the while, I noted dispersed campsites and streams for future trip ideas.
Waving Goodbye to Daemon Peak
The return hike was warm, and the lack of water higher on the ridge on day one was a challenge. We also witnessed constant smoke from the Calcite Creek Fire burning far away in British Columbia. It was, indeed, a somber reminder of another wildfire season underway. But on a lighter note, we got a surprise view of the Barron Yurt nestled in Indiana Basin below Tamarack Peak.
Despite some lowlights, including massive debris and midday heat, it was another memorable trip. Stunning views of Mount Ballard and Jack Mountain were continuous. Ultimately, three days in a new area of the Pasayten and a new stretch of the PCT had been rewarding. We took our final break by the barren path below Slate Peak, where we met and chatted with Christa and Patrick, heading to the border before parting ways.
