Bear Mountain, located near Mount Redoubt, towers above Indian Creek within the North Cascades National Park. One of the ways to reach this obscure peak is via the Chilliwack River and the Depot Creek Trail. Meanwhile, near the south, the notable Picket Range spans the horizon.
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Bear Mountain et al. at a Glance
Environs = Tombstone Peak + Solitude Peak + Tradition Peak + Goliah Peak
周圍地區=墓碑峯+冷僻峯+傳統峯+歌來亞峯
Access: Depot Creek Road
Round Trip: 43.6 miles
Elevation Range: 2200′-8406′
Essential Gear: helmet, rope, multi-night
Route Info: Brett Dyson, Cascade Alpine Guide, Eric Eames
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets
Playlist: Epic, Ethereal
Friday, July 21
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Ouzel Lake Camp + Tombstone Peak + Solitude Peak
The Preface on Bear Mountain
I initially planned a five-day trip, adding an extra day as a cushion. The late start and long way to camp on day two led to a freebie day. On day five, I stayed an extra night due to a badly bruised knee before leaving. Of all five peaks on this Bear Mountain itinerary, Tradition Peak was the most vague regarding the route. Fred Beckey’s notes weren’t helpful at all, as he never climbed it. Plus, other info I gathered had skipped crucial details.
The Chilliwack Lake Road was just as bad as my last visit in 2019, showing no improvement. It’s baffling why the Canadian government refuses to grade it, perhaps to minimize border traffic? Past the mile 6.5 fork were continuous new dips to access the upper valley. I parked at the same spot as last time, though high-clearance vehicles could continue through several more deep dips.
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A Drastic Change in the Landscape
After a few hours of sleep, I began walking at 4 AM, anticipating a long day ahead. My goal was Tombstone Peak and Solitude Peak on day one, depending on my arrival time at Ouzel Lake. However, something felt different after reaching the road fork at mile 1.5. Whoa, the area had been logged, and No Doubt Peak looked naked without trees. Meanwhile, I wondered where the new logging road was headed.
I followed my previous track into the forest, thinking it would get me on route. But the old trail was gone, replaced by brush and logging debris. Soon, I went uphill through messy old tree stumps onto a road toward the boundary. Then I realized I was actually on the same roadway, but now with the sight of Solitude Peak. The clearing certainly robbed the mystery of this place.
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Depot Creek Falls in North Cascades National Park
En route, I startled a bear on the slope above before it ran away after seeing me. While looking for the now-hidden trail, I accidentally missed the turnoff and continued uphill before backtracking. I reached the trailhead and the border within minutes, the key entrance of the trip. But seeing new markers on the US side along the newly logged area was rather odd.
They only lasted about half a mile until tree litter appeared, as I referenced my old track. The path mainly hugged Depot Creek, and piecing together visible parts under some windfalls was still manageable. Soon, I was within earshot of Depot Creek Falls, a memorable part of the climb. The trail ducked under the slide alder to the rope, the same one as before. Lots of water tumbled down gently as I went through slippery rocks, unlike the 2015 downpour.
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Ouzel Lake Camp to Tombstone Peak
Above the falls, cairns and a footpath took me through the talus. Before long, the trail shot straight to the upper basin in the final 400 feet. It soon took to the left of dense trees between the shallow creek and talus fields. After hearing the sound of a bear seemingly tumbling around in the water, I quickly stood up from my break. Then I followed my old track to Ouzel Lake, bypassing vegetation through rocks, and stashed gear.
Halfway up the gully to Silver Lake Pass, I veered right into Mount Spickard’s southwest basin. From there, it was more rocks until above the small waterfalls. Beyond that was steep snow as I hugged the cliffs higher up on my way toward Solitude Peak. But I mistook the rightmost snow ramp for the standard route and led through steeper terrain instead. Afterward, I went east down the snow through more crevasses than I cared to see.
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Climbing Tombstone Peak by Mount Spickard
Reaching the Mount Spickard-Tombstone Peak saddle wasn’t as direct as anticipated. During this, I weaved through gaps and dropped 1000 feet, alternating between rocks, cliffs, and snow. I hugged the cliffs to the 7400′ notch and soon made a beeline around the false summit. Then came the gap south of the two summit high points, requiring class 4 moves. It tested my climbing significantly.
From the notch, I dropped several feet to bypass the southwest peak. I couldn’t find a better way to the summit ridge without dropping steeply into the gully. So, I went straight up and weaved through cliffs with high exposure. After a few minutes on the southwest peak, I traversed 200 feet over slabs on milder terrain to the northeast. A short, narrow gully then put me at the top of the summit.
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Traversing to Solitude Peak Near Bear Mountain
Mount Spickard was the main feature from here; the two Mox Peaks were also impressive. Peering down at Perry Creek drainage, I was glad not to have come from Ross Lake. The increased water taxi fare was a factor, and Eric’s trips assured this approach for all my peaks. In turn, it saved me multiple trips to the area via different drainages around Bear Mountain.
After retracing steps to the 7000′ notch, I faced the dreaded 1000-foot regain. I traversed south of the glacier near Solitude Peak, hoping to summit it before dark. It had been a long day, and physically, I could crash anytime now. Looking at various route descriptions, I decided to stick to the standard one. One report noted it being the northwest ridge, but technically, it was the north ridgeline.
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Sunset Climb on Solitude Peak
Someone else claimed to have gone from the southeast, where snow looked incredibly steep on rocks. Ultimately, I went around several crevasses to the north ridge, the most feasible way. The route hugged the ridge, sometimes inching through shaky rocks, where I saw only one cairn. Before long, I finished the last bit from the crest up to the top. It was a significant part of the broader adventure of Bear Mountain et al..
The sky was dimming when I stood on the summit; at least I made it. I didn’t have time for photos, but got a few nearby peaks and a cheesy handheld selfie. Soon, I descended the ridge and was on the snow 400 feet below. Back at the 8000′ notch, I took the standard gully back to the basin below Mount Spickard. The part I dreaded was descending steep snow in the dark since half was now ice.
I slowly made steps while looking for places with less ice. A long time later, I joined my track at the bottom of the snow and soon reached the broad gully. During this, the headlamps I saw probably wondered which crazy person it was.
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Saturday, July 22
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Bear-Redoubt Saddle Camp @ 6720′
Bear Mountain via Redoubt Glacier
The morning came too soon after a short night of sleep above Ouzel Lake. I asked two climbers about some friends who should’ve arrived the previous afternoon. But it sounded like they had left for Mount Custer at first light. I was excited to continue to Redoubt Glacier, but crossing Depot Creek ended up taking me half an hour. Ultimately, the outlet was the most feasible after wasting some time downstream.
With more ice and crevasses this time, I stayed farther west above massive slabs. As the terrain flattened, more moulins appeared over the ice, which I avoided walking across. Meanwhile, it was surprising to find a small lake below our old camp from 2015. It showed just how fast snow had melted by the third week in July. But there was no need to worry about water, as it was plentiful on this trip.
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Mount Redoubt-Bear Mountain Saddle
After a short break atop the glacier, I dropped onto the south at 7200 feet into Redoubt Creek Basin. The mile-long talus traverse passed rather quickly, and soon, I was overlooking Bear Lake nestled below Mount Redoubt. I marveled at the blue water before continuing down the saddle at 6700 feet. Then, I realized I might not have enough time to climb Tradition Peak today.
I had dillydallied much of the morning to be productive the rest of the day. So I dumped everything on the pass between Mount Redoubt and Bear Mountain, then napped. Since it was still early, I wanted to scope out the area. So I went through steep scree over Cave Mountain’s northwest notch, a key access point for reaching the south side.
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An Afternoon by the Picket Range
Holy isht, the basins above Indian Creek and Pass Creek were under a sea of talus. I decided to continue since I didn’t have anything else to do the rest of the day. I also wanted to see if I could, at least, pinpoint the route on Tradition Peak. Traversing below the massive Cave Mountain and Rusted Ridge took much time. The approach to Bear Mountain and its neighbors involves varied terrain.
The former peak harbored scree and talus in the west basin. But the latter mainly held talus over the top of Pass Creek and was more enjoyable. As I moved across the top of Pass Creek, the stunning Cave Lake slowly appeared. It was even grander with the breathtaking Picket Range as the backdrop! From Rusted Ridge’s south basin, I dropped 200′ over scree and grass. Soon, terrain gave way to hardpan, then red talus. The afternoon light made it difficult to pinpoint the route, so I retraced to camp.
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Sunday, July 23
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Tradition Peak + Bear Creek Basin Camp @ 6400′
Climbing Tradition Peak by Bear Mountain
On day three, I followed my track from the evening before with the massive Bear Mountain to the west. Since I was familiar with the route, passing the first two basins took less time. But back in Rusted Ridge’s south basin soon came the more tedious mile-long traverse. It was my least favorite of the three in getting to the west of Tradition Peak.
At first, I didn’t see the southwest gully noted in the Cascade Alpine Guide. So I knew it had to be somewhere past the red rocks below the ridge towers. It ended up taking a while to go through the steep avalanche chutes, still covered in snow. Meanwhile, I walked down the edges to avoid putting on crampons until safe to cross. Soon, I went around the corner and finally saw the hidden gully under Tradition Peak. Whew!
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Southwest Basin Route
I wasn’t sure which way was most viable, but I knew I needed to find the class 4 terrain. After surveying, the large leftover snow patch below the cliffs appeared to be the most reasonable. Luckily, the snow ramp that led to the rocks was still intact without gaps. Then I climbed up the narrow gully through tall, class 4 rock steps. Meanwhile, I avoided grabbing onto any sketchy-looking chockstones on the route.
The higher I went, the steeper the terrain and the more hardpan I encountered. I built several cairns after losing sight of the narrow gully, fearing missing a turn somehow. Despite the short distance, the tight turns were easy to miss going down. I reached the southwest ridge at 7200′ and thought I could hug the crest. But in reality, the jagged ridgeline wasn’t feasible for traversing. So I stayed west.
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Tradition Peak Summit Views Plus Exit
Finally, the only white rock bench was where I eventually hopped on the crest. Despite the airiness, it was the most solid spot of the traverse on Tradition Peak! Soon, I finished the final stretch back through the massive red rocks. What a great vantage point the peak was, similar to Tombstone Peak. Thoughts ran through my head as I glanced down at Little Beaver Creek Valley.
It further confirmed my decision to come from Depot Creek instead of Ross Lake. How gullible to think it’d be a quick jaunt up from Little Beaver Creek. I’d fantasized about tackling these peaks one at a time from the bottom of the valley. But the 5000-foot gain from the valley floor seemed ridiculous now. Despite the long talus traverses, the altitude change was much gradual. Seeing the Picket Range from here was a surreal highlight.
After a long break, I returned to the ridge and followed cairns down to the gully. But I went lower in the basin to bypass snow chutes. Then, below Rusted Ridge, I stayed between 6800 and 7000 feet the rest of the way. I grabbed everything from camp and moved 300 feet lower to a knoll to be closer to Bear Mountain in the morning. In hindsight, I could’ve dropped even lower to 5800′ to save the extra walk.
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Monday, July 24
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Bear Mountain + Bear Creek Basin Camp @ 6400′
Bear Mountain Above Bear Creek Basin
Despite waking to a beautiful, colorful sky on day four, rain was in the forecast. I left for Bear Mountain before sunrise, hoping to beat the post-11 AM rain. But the first order was to find a way into the lower basin. Cliffs and waterfalls had lined the upper basin, so I poked around trees for an access. Then I stumbled on the water gully that took me into the lower basin to continue. Sweet!
Just west of it was another gully that looked doable from afar but less direct. I stopped above 5000′ before making a rising traverse over Bear Mountain’s northeast basin. It took time through moraine to reach the 6750′ notch atop the steep, broad gully. Everything looked as if it’d tumble at any time. It started dripping earlier in the gully, “Oh no, the rain’s coming!” I groaned.
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Access Chimney to Northwest Ridge
When I finally reached the notch, drizzles soon turned into light rain. Then, I took a half-hour nap amidst the krummholz, hoping to stay dry. After my nap, I went south toward the summit of Bear Mountain through more talus. Then I started looking for the said “chimney” in the Cascade Alpine Guide, but had a hard time finding it. Eventually, I went into an opening that looked like the right spot for the route.
The lower gully involved class 4 moves from the left to get above the rocks. Since it had been raining, I tried to stay off the grass as it grew quite slick. The slabs weren’t all that stable either, but they helped as I reached the northwest ridge. Then, in the mist, I moved south toward the 7400′ gap cited in the book. Then I dropped about 50 feet onto the notch before rising again to talus below the summit.
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Reaching Bear Mountain Summit in the Mist
With low visibility at the west face, I wasn’t sure where to start. I waited a few, hoping clouds would subside, but it didn’t happen. But I needed to get moving and went on the northwest ridge. With many unstable rocks en route, I tested every single one before putting weight on it. Finally, a rappel anchor indicated I was on the right track.
Soon, the unexpected sight of a chasm below the summit took me by surprise. It certainly wasn’t the place to lose footing as I went up from the left. The final bit included several class 4 moves onto a lonely peak without views. As I surveyed, the other end of the ridgeline looked higher. So, I carefully crossed the thin crest to that side, the actual Bear Mountain summit.
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Exiting the Mountain in One Piece
I picked up the register on the platform below and signed it before leaving after 10 minutes. Then, I downclimbed to the top anchor and backed it up before rappelling. I also backed up the lower one and rappelled again with my 30m rope. What an exhausting climb; Bear Mountain was a beast like its name! From the 6750′ northwest notch, it was a slow descent back through massive talus.
Soon, it rained again as I retraced steps through the moraine below the clouds. Back to camp through the water gully was a long trudge, a 1400′ uphill battle. It continued to pour when I reached my bivy before quickly stashing everything underneath it. It was the one time I wished I had brought a tent for this weather.
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Tuesday, July 25
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Goliah Peak + Canuck-Goliah Saddle Camp @ 6960′
Bear Lake En Route to Goliah Peak
The rain and wind gusts persisted well into the early morning as I stayed inside. Then it was time to leave for Goliah Peak when it turned into drizzle. I had set my clothes and shoes out to dry in the breeze, but they were beyond wet. After breakfast, I walked over to the beautiful Bear Lake and rested by the misty water. What a gem near Bear Mountain in the middle of nowhere.
I traversed north and stayed above 6000 feet over Mount Redoubt’s southwest ridge. As the terrain steepened, I dropped lower around the cliffs. Crossing the steep, hardpan gully under the headwall took more time than I expected. Soon, the rain returned, and I waited it out in the trees before moving again above 5800 feet. Then, through steep outcrops, I went through an old burn on Mad Eagle Peak‘s southwest ridge.
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Peak 7478 West Ridge to Goliah Peak
At one point, the sun tried piercing clouds but quickly retreated. Oh well! From 6400 feet on the southwest ridge, it was a 400-foot rising traverse west of Goliath Peak. Pretty soon, I was right back in a whiteout as on Bear Mountain. The plan was to exit the area via Lake Fork Basin tonight. So, I left my backpack on the west slope at 7100 feet and placed a waypoint on my phone.
After organizing the pack, I was off to Peak 7478, several hundred feet above. As luck would have it, as I neared the peak, my phone suddenly shut off due to cold temperatures. “Oh, crap! How would I ever find my pack?” I thought, running scenarios in my head. But for now, I’d finish climbing and think about it later. Then I dropped onto the east saddle from the top before continuing on the west ridge.
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An Unanticipated Stay on Canuck-Goliah Col
Reaching Goliath Peak would’ve been more enjoyable if it weren’t for the weather. Soon, I was sitting on another lonely summit, staring out at the mist. Without views, I once again took the needed photos before returning through Peak 7478. At one point, clouds lifted to reveal lower valleys. But it wasn’t long before the mist returned and loomed over the nearby peaks, including Bear Mountain.
Back on the west slope, I frantically started looking for my backpack. Despite daylight, my fear was not finding it at all. Worst-case, I’d tuck between rocks to get through the night. I wasn’t sure how cold it’d get, but exiting today was no longer an option. Soon, I began to sweep through the talus back and forth while moving up a few feet.
At one point, I tripped and bruised my left knee on a boulder. Great, now I was even slower in finding gear while limping, I thought. After an hour of searching, the fading clouds revealed the red popping color on the pack. Now with a bruised knee, I needed to stay put until morning. Meanwhile, a curious ptarmigan with its chick roamed as I looked for a spot to camp. I’d hear picas throughout this trip, but never saw them. Last but not least, my lighter also quit, so no dinner tonight!
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Wednesday, July 26
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3 > Day 4 > Day 5 > Day 6
Lake Fork + Exit
Leaving Bear Mountain et al.
After two days of rain, it was once again another sunny day ahead. I woke up with an incredibly sore knee and couldn’t bend it at all. Perhaps I should’ve put snow on it, which didn’t occur to me afterward for whatever reason. But knock on wood for not breaking any body parts, which could’ve ended worse. I walked a short way to Canuck-Goliah saddle and scoped out Lake Fork.
Oh boy, I’d never reach Depot Creek Trail as I needed to lead each step with my left foot. Awkwardly, I moved down the hardpan and the glacier with the Custer Ridge straight back. It took twice the estimated time to reach the pristine lake through massive boulders. Then, I savored the vista from our old campsite east of the water before leaving. Leaving the area was proving to be a slow process.
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Back to Chilliwack Lake and Out
Like before, I needed to contend with more boulders and steep scree below the lake basin. But on the upside, I was able to walk myself out, albeit very slowly. It took some time to cross Depot Creek, as the old log wasn’t there anymore. I texted the dog sitter at the border and asked to let Connor stay an extra night. I was glad it was still light out when I reached back at the car. Overall, it took 12 hours to finish the last eight miles of this trip.
Ultimately, I was happy to have visited the places I wanted on the Bear Mountain et al. trip. I also did the same with the six Bulger peaks the first time around. After briefly enjoying Chilliwack Lake, a long drive home back through the border crossing ensued.
John, you are amazing. Your photos are as beautiful as ever and they sure makes me want to be 20 or more years younger!
Thanks, Sue! You’ve done twice as many peaks as most of us. Let’s get a blog started for you. 🙂
Too much work! You do such a wonderful job at it. Prefer reading yours.