Black Tower (Oversight Peak) rises east of Sable Ridge (Mount Tragedy) above Hilgard Creek. It views east to the Fourth of July Basin and Tenmile Creek in the south. Moreover, Holden Village via Port of Lucerne offers the quickest way to the peak.
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Black Tower and Sable Ridge at a Glance
Access: Tenmile Falls Trailhead
One Way: 29.4 miles
Elevation Range: 3240′-7880′
Essential Gear: helmet, multi-night
Route Info: Cascade Alpine Guide, Eric Eames
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no on Black Tower
Playlist: Hopeful
Monday, July 10
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Holden Village + Hilgard Pass Camp + Black Tower
Return to Holden Village via Port of Lucerne
The last time I started a trip from Holden Village was four years ago with Cody. However, some things have changed since then, including not allowing dogs on the shuttle. It wasn’t an issue since I didn’t bring Connor due to the difficulty of the climbs.
GETTING TO HOLDEN VILLAGE (Newly Updated!)
> Hiker Services
--> 2024 Hiker Transportation Request Form (to and from Lucerne)
--> Suggested amount of $10 per person each directionI’m still unclear about the shuttle schedule after the pandemic. But it sounded like it was on a case-by-case basis due to the large number of volunteers in the summer. The registrar suggested avoiding weekends to have better odds of securing a ride.
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Adventure Awaits at Black Tower via Hilgard Pass
I had planned two outings to climb eight peaks near Stehekin, including Black Tower. Despite their closeness, I’ve dreaded them since day one due to logistics. But things often look near one another on the map until I see it with my own eyes.
I wanted to do a thru-hike from Holden Village to Stekekin for two reasons. First, I haven’t been to Hilgard Pass and thought it’d be a perfect excuse. Second, after White Goat Mountain, it’d be downhill to Stehekin Valley.
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Road-Tripping to Holden Village in the Red Tank
After a quick drop-off at Prince Creek, we arrived in Lucerne shortly. This time, the ride to Holden Village was a red truck that resembled an armored truck. As it turned out, I was the only passenger riding in with the groceries.
Like before, the ten-mile bumpy ride went by in the blink of an eye. When I got off the truck, the volunteers formed an assembly line and passed the supplies into the main building. I then went on my merry way to Tenmile Falls Trailhead.
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Discover Tenmill Falls Trail to the Splendid Tenmile Creek
I passed a woman and two kids before the falls, where it became Tenmile Creek Trail. After many switchbacks, the path took me into the valley with several down trees and somewhat brushy. Just before I crossed the stream, it began to rain.
I quickly hunkered down by a tree and put covers on the camera case and the pack. It was about 45 minutes before the heavy rain subsided. By then, the rain had drenched the whole area, and I wasn’t wearing waterproof pants.
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Hilgard Pass Below Black Tower
Depending on the map, the path past the junction was Company, Decore, or Tenmile Creek Trail. I entered the broad basin through the trees under the massive Martin Peak shrouded in clouds. Then I went up the switchbacks under the close watch of Black Tower.
I remembered this trail as a detour during the 2018 Bannock Lakes Fire on our way to Tenmile Pass. Besides that, I wondered if people stayed here since it didn’t feel like a destination. I left most of my gear on the pass before tackling Black Tower.
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Mastering Class 3 and 4 Terrain via the West Ridge
All was smooth sailing until I went too high too soon and encountered cliffs past 7200′. I then dropped onto the southwest slope via a long, narrow chimney. Soon, I was in the steep class 3 gully toward the summit that wasn’t yet visible.
Seeking the route of the least resistance, I went through two class 4 sections. Soon, I straddled the narrow, exposed crest above a dike, inching toward the west ridge. With a glimpse into the Fourth of July Basin, I stood up for the final traverse.
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Viewing Glacier Peak Wilderness from Black Tower
Sunset was nearing, so I quickly took photos, including a selfie with the massive Wy’East Mountain. On the way out, I bypassed the dike from the west through a notch to join my route. It was sundown when I reached mild terrain above the pass.
I grabbed my gear and walked 150′ up the west slope to a flat area I saw from the summit. It was broad with granite rocks amid the grass. Soon, I set up the bivy and ate a freeze-dried dinner before taking some astrophotos.
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Tuesday, July 11
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
Sable Ridge + North Sable Ridge + Hilgard Creek Camp
Climbing Sable Ridge and North Sable by Martin Peak
When the sun finally rose from behind Black Tower, it was my cue to get moving. Halfway down to Hilgard Creek, a short spur trail lured me away toward the cliffs. But I caught it and soon turned around to stay on track.
After crossing the water in the basin, I walked down to 5600′ and hung my gear in the meadow. Rather than carrying over, I’d save time by retrieving it after both peaks. It was worth repeating a mile of the trail sans the extra weight.
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South Ridge via the Rocky South Basin
Aiming for Sable Ridge’s south ridge, I soon left the forest into the talus basin. Despite the direct approach, I’d wobbled at times as scree shifted under my feet. Eventually, I reached the south shoulder and saw the massive Bonanza Peak to the west.
I traversed the crest and shortly faced the cliffs below the summit. So I veered right into a short, rocky gully below the two towers that looked equally tall. I walked across the top and soon settled on the one with a register, second from the west.
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Glorious Vistas of the Glacier Peak Wilderness Showcasing Black Tower
Other than one squirrel I met by the talus, there was little wildlife. The few ravens above and the gentle breeze made up the only sounds. I could see my four goals by Agnes Creek, including Heather Ridge and a bit of Lyall Ridge.
After soaking in the views, notably of Martin Peak, I returned to the south ridge. With cliffs draping the north, the way to North Sable Ridge was via the west crest. Then I dropped into the talus west basin from the 7150′ notch.
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En Route to North Sable Ridge South Basin
I evaded the steep snow at the bottom before hugging the cliffs below Sable Ridge up to the pass. Then, I rose 200′ while aiming for the 7200′ notch east of Point 7400. I scanned the route before plunge-stepping into the larch basin.
Soon, I crossed the meadow with a stream, the first water since the trail, through the larch trees. On the other side, the rocky rib took me up to the south ridge. After rising 400′ through outcrops and scree, I turned right toward the summit.
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Breathtaking Panoramas from North Sable Ridge Spotlight Black Tower
I climbed through a series of boulders and soon spotted the high point behind a notch. Despite seeing more choss on the north side, I crossed over to be on milder ground. Before long, I was pacing on the flat but rocky summit.
It had arguably better views than Sable Ridge at the north end of the vast ridgeline. Around me were the same familiar high points, including WyNorth. But the massive Bonanza Peak was now the main attraction.
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Returning to Hilgard Creek beneath the Black Tower
Back in the basin, I made a beeline for Company Creek Trail 1600′ down. Below the meadow, I hugged the edge of a rock field and said hello to a marmot. I then briefly hopped through the boulders before re-entering the forest.
By the creek, I had difficulty finding a way through the army of alder onto the trail. This part of the trail went through a wetland under dense foliage, but it was still visible. Soon, I walked one mile uphill to retrieve my gear.
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An Epic Evening Amid Wet Brush and Slide Alder
The valley floor was still damp from last evening’s rain. The sun never dried everything off before clouds moved in. So the vegetation north of the wetland I’d gone through earlier was soaking wet. Again, no waterproof pants!
I fought through the tall brushy path, which hadn’t been maintained for some time. The trail later crossed a stream at 4350′, the only water source I found. Then I went into the bushes and found a tiny space to sleep under the slide alder.
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Wednesday, July 12
Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3
White Goat Mountain Recon + Exit
White Goat Mountain via the West Ridge
The following day, I set off for White Goat Mountain north of the stream in damp clothes and boots. I only dealt with down trees and brush in the first 100 vertical feet before the open forest. It was more scenic than I pictured; I even spotted Black Tower.
The steep incline later took me over the knoll at 6920′ through continuous views. Then came the 200′-tall cliffs, which I steered through with ramps and ledges. Below the broad meadow at 7200′, I spotted an excellent camp at 6800′ with running water.
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Traversing South Ridge to the Base of the Climb
I bypassed the outcrops from the east through the notch on the south ridge. Then, the visible ramp took me straight to the bottom of the route, 150′ below the top. I soon knew my heavy boots couldn’t have jammed into the cracks to continue.
I looked down at the long runout and knew I wouldn’t want to climb without my rock shoes. A fall here would mean landing somewhere at the bottom of the cliffs. After taking in views of Tupshin and Devore, I decided to return later in the season.
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Leaving Black Tower et al. for Harlequin Bridge
Back at camp, I packed up and walked down the trail, which was now dry; woot! I decided to continue since it was light when I approached the washed-out bridge. About 200 feet downstream was a log jam, which I used to get to the other side.
The trail was decent for one mile before things started to look grim. Since the path hadn’t been logged recently, I swam through dense brush for the next 1.5 miles. Meanwhile, I couldn’t see my feet and would sometimes trip over the hidden windfalls.
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Light at the End of the Brush on Company Creek Trail
After emerging from the mess (the heavenly choir sang, ta-da!), I had zero energy left. I wondered how the path could be this terrible with people hiking through it. Or maybe not. Ultimately, it took 1.5 hours to go through 1.5 miles. Lawd, have mercy!
I reached the road at sunset but was grateful for the extended daylight. Then, I walked the last mile to Harlequin Bridge, passing several homes en route. I crashed by the bridge to avoid disturbing the nearby campers while looking for an open spot.
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Instagram: Visit Stehekin by Lake Chelan
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Back to Stehekin Bakery and Stehekin Landing
After a restful night, I crossed the bridge and waited for the 9 AM shuttle. As I was busy taking photos, a couple emerged from the campground. We started talking, and I learned they were from Laramie, Wyoming, working for the university.
One must try the Stehekin Pastry Company, as I do after each climbing trip. The shuttle driver made a 20-minute stop so we could get our grub on. I ordered twice as many pastries this time because that’s how much I missed the place!
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Riding the “Lady of the Lake” Back to Fields Point Landing
After visiting our national parks, Colleen and Nick decided to take a detour to Stehekin. But not before someone had broken into their rental car the first day they arrived in Washington. What a wonderful welcome to the visitors, mofos!
The three of us continued to talk and waited for the ferry together. The ride through Lake Chelan over several chats made the time go much faster. Before long, I bid farewell to the lovely couple as I got off the boat at Fields Point Landing.
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