Big Snagtooth by Silver Star Mountain / 靠銀星山的大斷牙

Big Snagtooth is the highest point on the Snagtooth Ridge. The north ridge joins the Vasiliki Ridge at Silver Star Mountain. The peak is also easily accessible from the North Cascade Highway and doable in a day.

Big Snagtooth on Snagtooth Ridge
Big Snagtooth on Snagtooth Ridge

See more trip photos here.

Big Snagtooth at a Glance

Access: Highway 20 MP 166
Round Trip: 6.2 miles
Elevation Range: 4160′-8330′
Gear: helmet, rope
GPS Trackavailable
Dog-Friendly: no

The Preface

Our Chilliwacks trip shortened because of poor weather conditions. But with only two more days left to spare, I stayed in the North Cascades. Then I looked for Bulger List peaks doable in a day.

I’ve had two unsuccessful tries to Big Snagtooth with friends. One of the trips nearly ended in tragedy. So this time I tackled the peak alone. So I could spare others from the type 2 fun.

See more trip photos here.

En Route to Big Snagtooth

It was my third time taking the same route. So finding my way wasn’t an issue. But this time, in the upper basin, I stayed away from the talus field in the west basin. We turned around here the first time.

There was no snow in the basin like the second time. So going up to the southwest ridge was a drag. But I moved southeast on rocks and scree slopes. Then I reached the ridge at 7600′.

Big Snagtooth southwest ridge
Big Snagtooth southwest ridge

See more trip photos here.

The South Route

Previously, my partner and I turned around at the bottom of the rappel route. At the time, we also mistook it for the standard route. But this time I followed the cairns around to the south.

Later I entered a steep and narrow gully from the summit’s south side. Then I squeezed myself through a few chockstones. A couple of class 4 moves, and I exited the chimney onto an platform covered in scree.

See more trip photos here.

The Final Stretch

From there, I mistakenly went on top of the rocks on my left. It looked like the higher point because of the perspective from below. But sbortly, I saw the boulder on the other end marking the real summit.

So I walked over to the summit rock I had read about in reports. But without the help of a partner, I slowly friction climbed the boulder. Meanwhile, an annoying horse fly kept breaking my concentration.

East view
East view

See more trip photos here.

Big Snagtooth Plus Views

Finally! I made it up here on the third try. Normally, I’d enjoy the company of my partners. But going solo on this trip provided the efficiency I needed.

Despite the low clouds in the horizon, views were overall decent. But the mist obscured the places I had hoped to see. Later a weather system slowly crept in from the northwest.

Storm's a-coming
Storm’s a-coming

Outro

By the time I went back down to the upper basin, it drizzled a bit. But glad that the sky had cleared. Then the sun came back out before thd rain clouds fully manifested.

Later I reached the car a few hours before sunset to a blue sky.

See more trip photos here.

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