Mount Logan Fremont Glacier / 洛根山費力蒙冰川

Hello summit
Hello summit

Photos from this trip can be found here.

The Lowdown on Mount Logan

Access: Thunder Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: TBD
Elevation Range: 1240′-9087′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax

GPS Track: available

Logistics Overview

September 12-14, 2015

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Day 1 – Saturday, September 12
Approach to Thunder Basin
Night 1 – Thunder Basin Camp @ 6000′

Day 2 – Sunday, September 13
Mount Logan
Night 2 – Junction Camp

Day 3 – Monday, September 14
Exit


Day 1

Approach to Thunder Basin

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Hiking to Thunder Basin

The approach was by far the loneliest on a solo climb. The 16-mile trek into Thunder Basin felt extra long when views were scarce. It got dark after two more miles of hiking. Then I found a good campsite half a mile north of Park Creek Pass at 6000′.

The sky was clear at night, but with a slight of city light pollution. I managed to get good shots of the Milky Way and star trails over Mount Buckner.

Day 2

Mont Logan

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Next morning, the weather unexpectedly took a drastic turn. Low clouds and wind gusts had overtaken the whole area. But I wasn’t overly concerned as the weather forecast had indicated a bluebird weekend. So I waited an hour before the sky gradually cleared up to head up the mountain.

I believe most parties stay low to get around southwest ridge of Logan’s south peak at 6600′ then traverse northeastward up the west face. I aimed high on south face, crossed a notch on the ridge at 7800′, then descended couple hundred feet onto the west face and traversed northward toward Fremont Glacier.

Views just kept getting better the higher I went.

After taking a break before Pint 8248, I started working my way up the glacier heading northeast toward the hogback. I looked around and didn’t see anywhere snow was touching the rocks for an easy transition.

The only thing I had working for me was this one dying snow bridge extending over a ledge allowing me to jump onto rocks. Mostly exposed class 3 from there to the 8700′ notch north of Logan’s middle peak. A climbers path on west side of the ridge guided final scramble to the summit.

Mount Logan Summit Delight

Holy isht! I couldn’t believe I finally made it to the top of this gigantic mountain. Logan is aesthetic from all directions, but I particular like the north face viewed anywhere from Ragged Ridge. Views went for miles and miles on this gorgeous day. I looked over at Goode Mountain and its nearly precipitous north side, unsure if I’d still have a shot at it before the first snowfall.

Once I had a chance to soak in all the views around me, it was time to head back down to camp. The dying snow bridge was the only crux, as it was easy to get off than getting back on. I reached out and dug the ice ax deep into the hard snow first, then one leg at a time slowly climbed back onto the glacier.

Backtracking to Highway 20

Back at camp late afternoon, I quickly packed up, took a quick nap, and then set off for the long 18-mile trek back out to Highway 20. I arrived back at Skagit Queen Camp after dark, then slowly walked the next four miles plus the annoying 1000′ elevation gain back up to Junction Camp.

It was 11 PM and I was exhausted, so I spent the night at the camp, which coincidentally was the halfway point between my car and my camp the night before. Halfway there!

Day 3

Exit

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Got up early the next morning and started hiking the remaining nine miles back to the car. My big toes were killing me.

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

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