Bowan Mountain on Rainbow Ridge via McAlester Pass / 波恩山

  • Reading time:26 mins read

Bowan Mountain on Rainbow Ridge sits atop the famous Rainbow Lake-McAlester Pass loop. To the west rises the massive McGregor Mountain. Then, on the east stand the awe-inspiring McAlester Mountain and West Level Peak.

Bowan Mountain on Rainbow Ridge from West Level Peak
Bowan Mountain on Rainbow Ridge from West Level Peak

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Bowan Mountain at a Glance

Environs = Rainbow Ridge + McAlester Mountain + West Level Peak + Dee Dee Peak
週圍地區=彩虹脊+麥卡利斯特山+西平峯+迪迪峯

Access: Bridge Creek Trailhead
Round Trip: 39 miles
Elevation Range: 3600′-7928′
Gear: helmet, crampons, ice ax
Route Info: Brett Dyson, Eric Eames
GPS Track: available
Dog-Friendly: no pets


Friday, July 15

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

McAlester Pass Camp + Rainbow Ridge + Bowan Mountain

The Preface on Bowan Mountain

I didn’t enjoy the uphill hike back to Highway 20 the last time. So, for this trip, I had planned to come in from the south via Stehekin. But managing two dogs and transportation logistics wouldn’t have worked out well.

Apart from Bowan Mountain, I also visited Rainbow Ridge, West Level Peak, McAlester Mountain, and Dee Dee Peak. Despite being in the national park, leaving the pup behind was good. They likely wouldn’t have enjoyed the outing.

Pacific Crest Trail (Bridge Creek)
Pacific Crest Trail (Bridge Creek)

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Bridge Creek Trail to East Fork McAlester Creek

I was on this trail seven years ago on the way to Goode Mountain. The only difference during the quiet hike down the decent path was not seeing anyone. The 3.5-mile walk to McAlester Lake Trail went by in the blink of an eye.

The weather has been pleasant in the cold morning but would turn warm. I crossed the log bridge over Bridge Creek past the fork. Soon, I reached East Fork McAlester Creek in a mile and saw the half-split log bridge.

Fording East Fork McAlester Creek
Fording East Fork McAlester Creek

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McAlester Lake Trail

Without a place to cross the shallow water, I forded in slippers used for camp. Then, it was a straightforward two-mile walk before the first switchback. During this, I went through two clearings with Hock Mountain overhead.

Spotty views in the forest included Three Wives’ lower ridges plus some Rainbow Ridge. After going up several switchbacks, I soon walked past McAlester Lake, hidden from view. I’d visit it briefly on the last day.

Rainbow Ridge from the trail
Rainbow Ridge from the trail

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McAlester Pass to Rainbow Ridge

I reached McAlester Pass in another mile and expected to see a woodsy saddle. Instead, it was a lush, expansive meadow that welcomed my arrival. Meanwhile, I kept staring at the seemingly superimposed McAlester Mountain.

After dropping off some gear, I looked for the Rainbow Ridge Trail while going south. I then stumbled on it in the trees on the other side of the pass. As it turned out, I had missed the fork in the meadow before entering the woods.

McAlester Pass at last
McAlester Pass at last

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Rainbow Ridge to Bowan Mountain

There was a lot of standing water from the snowmelt at the start. Parts of the trail were less defined but stayed south of the small stream. I’d sometimes lose it to snow patches but soon found the next stretch to continue.

The traverse through Rainbow Ridge seemed to take forever, and it was long. From the pass to the Bowan Mountain’s south saddle was over four miles. Along the rolling terrain, I needed to go through two lake basins.

This way to Bowan Mountain
This way to Bowan Mountain

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Rainbow Ridge High Point to Bowan Mountain

I lost the trail to the snow shortly past Lake 6111, but it’d show up later in some places. Above the lake, I put on crampons and aimed at the Rainbow Ridge high point. Then I went up to the south ridge and finished the rest via slabs.

It was another 1.5 miles to the top of Bowan Mountain. But first, I needed to drop 600′ via the west ridge to the top of Lake 6495. Then I went into the east basin while checking out the cornices draping the south shoulder.

Next stop, Bowan Mountain
Next stop, Bowan Mountain

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The Final Stretch on Bowan Mountain

I found a dry spot higher on the ridge and knew it was the better option. So I reached the notch at 6500′, 100′ higher. Right then, the incredible sight of McGregor Mountain soon appeared behind the ridgeline.

After rounding the buttress, I entered the broad gully through loose rocks and slabs. En route were two more gullies, and I bypassed the second one atop the east ridge. The final stretch went through ledges on the north side past the snow.

Bowan Mountain summit tower
Bowan Mountain summit tower

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Bowan Mountain Summit Views

It was the closest I’d seen McGregor Mountain from another mountain, and it was gratifying. But that trip was logistically elaborate without views on top. I turned to the next day’s goals to the east and knew it’d be another long day.

McAlester Mountain and West Level Peak looked much farther and less distinct. Everything inside the national park was visible, it seemed. Then came the unexpected and stunning view of Lake Chelan just south of Stehekin.

Northwestern panoramic view from Bowan Mountain
Northwestern panoramic view from Bowan Mountain

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Back to McAlester Pass

Camping in one of the two lake basins sounded like a terrific idea. But I needed to take my arse back to the pass, ready for another long day ahead. After downclimbing the gravel slabs, I aimed straight toward Rainbow Ridge.

As much as I wanted to bypass the ridgetop, retracing my steps would be better. So I gained back 600′ and then another 200′ past Lake 6111 before returning to the pass. After a quick dinner and some Go Back to China, I had a restful night in the bivy sack.

Looking back at Bowan Mountain
Looking back at Bowan Mountain

See more trip photos here.


Saturday, July 16

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

West Level Peak + McAlester Mountain

En Route to Dee Dee Lakes

I woke up at 5 AM to prepare for the long day. After breakfast, I passed some campers nearby and went to South Pass. The trail soon took me to a beautiful meadow, where the impressive McAlester Mountain sat front and center.

I stopped every few minutes en route to admire the dramatic landscape. Before long, I reached South Pass and located the faint trail to Dee Dee Lakes. It’s only 50 feet from the lower pond to the much larger upper lake below McAlester Mountain.

Upper Dee Dee Lake
Upper Dee Dee Lake

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Dee Dee Pass to McAlester Mountain East Saddle

From the upper lake, I went southeast through steep, rocky terrain to the 6640′ pass. It would be my camp for the second night. After dropping off some gear, I went up the snowy slope to the 7080′ notch west of Point 7371.

It wasn’t smooth sailing to the pass, as much of the snow toward the top had melted. So, I bypassed the snow and weaved through the boulders instead, hoping for a faster ascent. But I don’t know if it saved me any time.

This way to West Level Peak
This way to West Level Peak

See more trip photos here.

En Route to West Level Peak by Bowan Mountain

I looked at West Level Peak from the pass and knew what was in store. Then, for the next 1.5 miles, it was a nonstop side traverse via the top of Rennie Creek Basin. I looked for Rennie Peak but wasn’t sure if I ever saw it.

The first part of the traverse involved dropping 500′ to the moraine. I alternated between rocks and snow and kept the altitude between 6400′ and 6600′. Then en route were the endless vistas of Reynolds Peak and Camels Hump.

Snow gully approach
Snow gully approach

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The Final Stretch on West Level Peak

After rounding the east ridge at 6500′, I entered the broad east gully. The traverse was direct but not as straightforward as I had expected. As the terrain steepened, I went up via snow or wet rocks from the running water.

The overhead cliffs and cornices kept me from reaching the ridgeline directly. So I went to the southeast ridge at 7400′ and propped myself over the snowbank with the ice ax. Then, the final 400′ was on class 2 terrain to another fine vantage point.

The final stretch on West Level Peak
The final stretch on West Level Peak

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West Level Peak Summit Views

Despite the proximity, it was an exhausting climb. Perhaps it’s because I hadn’t recovered from the day before and had less sleep than I would’ve liked. But I limited my visit to half an hour since I still needed to get to McAlester Mountain.

It may have been the best angle to see Bowan Mountain. Or it was the few Washington State’s highest peaks, including Goode Mountain, in the backdrop that dramatized the landscape considerably.

Northern panoramic view from West Level Peak
Northern panoramic view from West Level Peak

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En Route to McAlester Mountain by Bowan Mountain

Dropping from the snowbank was tricky. So, instead, I went farther down on the edge and downclimbed rocks for a safer ascent. Then I plunge-stepped through the snowfields before rounding the east ridge to the other side.

Going the other way felt much smoother as I followed my tracks back to the moraine. But instead of alternating between rocks and snow, I took the snowfields up to the south ridge this time. Soon, I was on the summit crest.

Next stop, McAlester Mountain
Next stop, McAlester Mountain

See more trip photos here.

The Final Stretch on McAlester Mountain

The east peak looked deceptively taller from below until I neared it. I tried bypassing it initially, but climbing over the high point was much more manageable. But of course, the actual high point sat on the west end of the ridgeline.

The closer I neared the top, the more manageable (yet exposed) it was to traverse the crest. But en route were a few small notches where staying right below the ridgeline was safer. Soon, I reached the top half an hour before sunset, eek!

The final stretch on McAlester Mountain
The final stretch on McAlester Mountain

See more trip photos here.

McAlester Mountain Summit Views

Where did the day go?! But at least the lighting was more suitable for photos. It felt like I was moving every waking minute without time to process anything. I was glad to have decided to camp closer to the mountain.

Bowan Mountain looked as far away as it was when I saw McAlester Mountain from there. But my favorite view was the curving ridgeline from here to West Level Peak. Soon, I left the top right before the sun dipped onto the horizon.

Western panoramic view from McAlester Mountain
Western panoramic view from McAlester Mountain

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Back to Dee Dee Pass

I went through 200′ of scree from the summit ridge’s edge to the snow. Soon, I made a beeline down to the saddle west of Point 7371. But the most annoying part was finding a feasible way to drop onto the north side.

The campsite had no running water, so I grabbed some from a higher-up stream. The wind had picked up shortly after reaching camp. So I chowed down dinner, slipped into the bivy sack, and crossed my fingers for no rats.

South panorama from McAlester Mountain's east ridge
South panorama from McAlester Mountain’s east ridge

See more trip photos here.


Sunday, July 17

Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

Dee Dee Peak + Exit

Exiting Through Dee Dee Peak

Dee Dee Peak was merely a 400′ bump above camp. So, I decided to take the scenic route and return to South Pass from the north side. Along the way was the direct view of Mother Lode Peak and Crescent Mountain above South Creek.

Morning mists soon subsided as I returned to McAlester Pass. On their way to Banshee Peak, I ran into two people by the meadow. I didn’t see a trail on my map, but I hoped they had found the spur path to the top.

South Creek Valley from Dee Dee Peak
South Creek Valley from Dee Dee Peak

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Back to North Cascades Highway (Highway 20)

Without stopping, I walked through McAlester Pass and down the trail. I took the side path to check out McAlester Lake before moving again. Before long, I was at the creek crossing and forded back to the other side.

I later waved hello to some hikers resting by the PCT junction. Soon, I started my least favorite part of the trip–walking uphill to finish. I was an hour behind schedule but hoped to pick up the dogs from boarding on time.

Finding my way home
Finding my way home

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Overview > Day 1 > Day 2 > Day 3

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